Pork Loin Tuscan Style with Roasted Potatoes

This dish is known in Italian as Arista di Mailale alla Toscana.

(serves 6–8)

2 large sprigs fresh rosemary (to make 2 Tbs chopped)
3 large sprigs fresh sage (to make 2 Tbs chopped)
1 lemon
5 cloves garlic
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
4 lb pork loin
6–8 thin pancetta slices
potatoes
olive oil

1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

2. Strip the herb leaves. Zest the lemon. Peel and trim the garlic. Combine and chop together finely. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Rinse and pat dry the pork loin. Cut away any excess fat. Make 10–12 deep slits (about 1-1½ inches deep) and insert a finger to widen. Pack with the herb mixture (you'll need only about6 half).

4. Cover with the pancetta slices. Truss the loin with loops of string at the center and both ends. Wrap in aluminum foil and place in a roasting pan.

5. Cut the potatoes into pieces no larger than the size of a lime. Toss with the remaining herb mixture, some salt, and a little olive oil. Place in the roasting pan in a single layer around the pork loin.

6. Roast in the oven for 40 minutes. Unwrap the foil and continue roasting until done, about another 30-40 minutes. Let the meat rest for at least 10 minutes before carving.

TIP
• If you can't get decent pancetta, bacon will do.

Peanut Butter–Chocolate Thumbprints

My daughter, Abigail, developed this recipe when the family complained that her peanut butter–chocolate sandwich cookies (two cookies and twice as much filling) were just too fattening!

2½ c smooth peanut butter, at room temperature
1½ c brown sugar
1 tsp baking soda
2 large eggs
2 tsp.vanilla extract
5 oz bittersweet chocolate chips
4 Tbs unsalted butter

To make the cookies:

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicon mats.

2. Place the peanut butter, brown sugar, and baking soda in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium-low speed for 1 minute. Add the eggs and vanilla. Beat on low speed until blended, about 30 seconds.

3. Using your hands, shape the dough into small balls, each about the size of a unshelled walnut. Flatten the ball into a fat disc and place on one of the baking sheets. Each sheet should hold 12–15 discs. Continue until you have used up half the dough.

4. Bake for 6 minutes, then rotate the sheets and continue backing until the cookies become puffed and crackled, about another six minutes. Remove from the oven.

5. Using the handle of a thick wooden spoon, make a depression in the center of each cookie. (Be careful not to press so hard that you crumble the cookie.) Let the cookies cool on the sheet for 10 minutes before transferring them to a cooling rack.

6. Repeat with the remaining dough.

To fill the cookies:

1. In a microwave using a microwave-safe bowl. melt the chocolate chips and butter. Stir well to combine. Let cool for 10–15 minutes while the mixture thickens.

2. Using a small spoon, fill the depression in each cookie with some chocolate mixture. Leave on the cooling rack to set.

Cantucci

These cookies are a Tuscan version of almond biscotti. The recipe comes from Chef Paolo Monti, who runs a great cooking school in Lucca, hence the native metric measurements.

250 g whole almonds (about 8¾ oz)
500 g flour (about 17½ oz)
400 g sugar (about 14 oz)
1 tsp baking soda
1 tsp kosher salt
grated zest of an orange
grated zest of a lemon
5 large eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

2. Toast the almonds until golden, about 10 minutes. Remove and let cool before proceeding. (The nuts can be warm but not hot.)

3. In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking soda, and salt. Add the orange and lemon zests and the cooled almonds.Mix to combine. Beat all but one of the eggs with the vanilla extract and add to the dry ingredients. Mix well until all of the dry ingredients have been moistened (the dough will turn a slightly darker shade of yellow).

4. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead until the entire dough sticks together and becomes relatively smooth.

5. Roll the dough into a log and cut into four equal pieces. Roll each piece into a log about 10 inches long. Transfer the logs to two baking sheets lined with parchment paper or silicon mats (two logs per sheet). Space the logs well apart.

6. Beat the remaining egg with about 1 tablespoon of water to create an egg wash. Paint the logs with the wash.

7. Bake until golden brown, about 25 minutes. Remove from the oven. After a few minutes but while the logs are still hot, cut them on the bias into ¾-inch slices. Place the slices back on the hot baking sheets to dry a little more. They should be crisp on the outside but still soft on the inside.

TIP
• Don't be surprised if the dough initially seems too dry to come together. Kneading will almost always do the trick. However, depending on certain conditions (such as the size of the eggs, the humidity, the type of flour, etc.), it may be that your dough is too dry. In that case, add a little more beaten egg.

Farro and Bean Soup

This is another dish I added to my repertoire following my trip to Lucca. Farro is a grain that you can find in health food stores and the bulk bins of specialty food markets. Tuscan restaurants serve zuppa di farro in many different styles, but the ones I liked best were creamy )from the puréed beans and potatoes) and peppery.

1½ c dried cranbery beans
5 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
1 large sprig fresh sage
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 large carrot, finely chopped
1 stalk celery, finely chopped
2 Tbs olive oil
4 ripe plum tomatoes, diced
2 meduim potatoes, diced
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
1¼ cups farro
2 sprigs fresh rosemary

1. Place the cranberry beans in a large stockpot and cover with two inches of cold water. Let soak overnight.

2. The next day, add enough cold water so that the soaked beans are covered again by two inches. Add two of the the garlic cloves and sage. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently until the beans are cooked, about 2 hours. While the beans are cooking, add water as necessary to replace what has evaporated.

3. Meanwhile, finely chop the remaining garlic along with the onion, carrot, and celery. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over a medium-low flame. Sauté the chopped vegetables until they soften and begin to caramelize, about 10–12 minutes. Add the tomatoes and continue cooking until the tomatoes begin to dissolve into the other vegetables, about 6–8 minutes. Add the potatoes and cook for another 6–8 minutes. Transfer the contents of the skillet to the cooking beans.

4. When the beans are cooked, purée the soup, preferably using an immersion blender. Add enough water so that the soup will be thin enough to cook the farro. Season heavily with salt and especially pepper. (I add a full tablespoon of pepper.)

5. Add the farro and rosemary and simmer for another 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand for at least an hour. If the soup becomes too thick, add more water. Reheat as necessary before serving.

TIP
• The mixture of onion, carrot, and celery is a staple of European cooking. The French call it mirepoix, while the Italians call it soffritto. The ratio is usually 2 parts onion to 1 part carrot to 1 part celery.

Tordelli di Lucchesi

Nearly every restaurant in Lucca, where I vacationed last summer, serves a version of this traditional Lucchesan dish. Tordelli look like ravioli, but that's where the resemblance ends. The filling is savory rather than cheesy, and the cinnamon- and sage-infused ragú with which the tordelli are served is distinctively Tuscan. I learned how to make this dish from Chef Paolo Monti, who runs a fabulous cooking school in Lucca. Worth a trip!

(serves six)

The Filling
¾ lb Swiss chard, stems removed
3 c day-old Italian bread, cubed
2 Tbs pine nuts
2 Tbs raisins
1 oz Parmagiano-Reggiano, grated
1 large egg, beaten
½ whole nutmeg, grated
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper

The Pasta
500 g flour (about 3¾ c)
5 eggs (plus an additional egg for the wash)
1 Tbs olive oil

To make the filling:

1. Add a quarter-inch of cold water to a large skillet and place over medium heat. Add the chard and braise until wilted. Drain and rinse with cold water. Squeeze dry.

2. Place the squeezed chard in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Add the bread, pine nuts, raisins, and cheese. Process until puréed.

3. Transfer the mixture to a mixing bowl. Add the egg and nutmeg, along with salt and pepper to taste. Stir to combine.

To make the pasta:

1. Combine the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process until the dough forms a ball. (If the dough is too dry to come together, add water, a teaspoon at a time, until it does.)

2. Wrap the dough with plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes.

To make the tordelli:

1. Cut the dough ball into quarters. Working with one quarter at a time, roll out using a pasta machine to setting 7 (the thinnest setting on a standard machine). Dust with flour and transfer to a large pasta board.

2. Place small balls of filling (about the size of large grapes) along the strip of pasta. The balls should be the width of two fingers apart and centered on the bottom half of the pasta strip.

3. Beat an egg with a little water (about a tablespoon) to create an egg wash.. Using a quick, light stroke, paint a little egg wash around each ball of filling. This will help seal the tordelli.

4. Fold the top half of the pasta strip over the bottom half. Press to seal, squeeing out any air bubbles that form.

5. Use a ravioli cutter to separate the individual tordelli. Flour well to prevent sticking.

To complete the dish:

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

2. Cook the tordelli until done, about 7 minutes.

3. Serve topped with ragù alla Lucchese (see accompanying recipe).

Ragù alla Lucchese

I use store-bought chicken stock all the time—but not for this recipe. It's going to take you the better part of an afternoon, anyway; so you might as well be a purist and make your own stock, too. It's much easier than you think (see accompanying recipe).

1 large onion, (to make 1 c chopped)
1 large carrot, (to make ½ c chopped)
1 stalk celery (with leaves), (to make ½ c chopped)
4 cloves garlic
2 oz pancetta
6 leaves fresh sage
4 Tbs olive oil
¾ lb ground beef
¼ lb ground pork
1 tsp kosher salt
1 stick cinnamon
1 while nutmeg
4 cloves
1 c red wine
homemade chicken stock, warm
3 Tbs tomato paste

1. Finely chop the onion, carrot, celery, garlic, and pancetta. Coarsely chop the sage.

2. In a large sauce pan or Dutch oven. heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over a medium flame. Add the ground meat. Break up large clumps with a wooden spoon and turn occasionally but do not overstir. Instead, let the heat rise up from the bottom of the pan to cook the meat. When the meat is well browned, remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Drain the fat from the pan and wipe clean with a paper towel.

3. Return the pan to the heat and add the remaining oil. Add the pancetta and sauté  until some fat is rendered, about 2 minutes. Add the onion, carrot, celery, garlic, and salt. Cook until the onions become translucent, about 10-12 minutes.

4. Return the meat to the pan. Stir in the sage and spices. Add the wine and enough stock to cover the meat. Stir in the tomato paste.

5. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for at least an hour. As the liquid evaporates, add more warm stock. Reduce the sauce to a pleasing consistency.

TIPS
• Like all mirepoix, the aromatics in this sauce should be proportionally ½ onion, ¼ carrot, and ¼ celery—and as finely chopped as possible.

• As the sauce reduces, Chef Paolo  sometimes adds bouillon powder (with MSG) to enhance the flavor.

Homemade Chicken Stock

1 tomato
½ onion
1 carrot
2 stalks celery (with leaves)
2 bony chicken parts (such as necks, wings, and backs)
4 c cold water

1. Prepare the vegetables as follows: Cut a cross in the top of the tomato. Cut off the root end of the onion but leave on the skin. Peel the carrot and trim its ends. Halve the celery to fit into the pot.

2. Place the vegetables and chicken in a large sauce pan. Cover with the cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until flavorful.

TIPS
• I keep an assortment of scrap chicken parts (such as necks and backs) in my freezer specifically for stock making. You don't need to defrost frozen parts in order to use them. The water will do that for you as it heats. But  you should wrap the pieces individually in wax paper before freezing them so that you can separate what you need when you need it.

• Chef Paolo advises purchasing celery stalks with the leaves still attached. He says the leaves hold much of the celery's flavor.

Tiramisu

I spent more than a few years searching for a tiramisu recipe that measured up to restaurant fare. My attempts were either too soggy or too complicated. Then I found this recipe. The only way to mess it up is to use the wrong ingredients. Most importantly, use hard Italian ladyfinger cookies, not the spongy Twinkie-style cakes that supermarket bakeries call ladyfingers. (I buy the Vantia brand.) The rest is easy.

4 c coffee, brewed double-strength
1 c plus 2 Tbs sugar
¼ c rum
4 eggs, separated
16 oz mascarpone
48 hard Italian ladyfinger cookies
3 Tbs cocoa powder

1. Brew the coffee. While the coffee is still hot, stir in 2 tablespoons of the sugar and set aside. When the coffee has cooled, stir in the rum.

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg yolks and the remaining sugar on medium-high until the yolks are pale and fluffy, about 4–5 minutes. Add the mascarpone and continue beating until smooth, another 2–3 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.

3. Wash and dry the bowl and whisk of the stand mixer thoroughly. Beat the egg whites on medium-high until they form stiff peaks, about 3–4 minutes. Gently fold the beaten egg whites, one large dollop at a time into the mascarpone mixture.

4. Arrange on your countertop the ladyfingers, coffee, and a large Pyrex baking dish (about 10” by 15”). Submerge a ladyfingers in the coffee for 2–3 seconds (see tip below). Then place it neatly in the bottom of the baking dish. Continue until you have formed a complete layer, breaking cookies to fit if necessary. (This should use up half of the cookies.)

5. Spread half of the mascarpone mixture evenly over the ladyfingers. Top with 2 tablespoons of the cocoa powder (see tip below).

6. Using the same method as above, add a second layer of soaked ladyfingers. Top with the remaining mascarpone mixture (but not with any more cocoa powder). Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least two hours.

7. Before serving, top with the remaining tablespoon of cocoa powder.

TIPS
• To brew double-strength coffee, simply brew as you normally would but use twice as much ground coffee. Use an espresso roast if you have it.

• Don't be tempted to oversoak the ladyfingers. They should still be firm when you remove them from the coffee (they will soften considerably as the liquid soaks through them). You'll know you've soaked them long enough if, by the time you finish a layer, the first cookies are spongy. You'll know you've soaked them too long if they fall apart in your hands.

• Instead of a large baking dish, you can use two loaf pans, making three layers in each.

• To apply the cocoa powder evenly, you can use a sifter. But I find sifters cumbersome, so I use a small mesh strainer (the one I use was originally designed to cover a sink drain). I spoon the cocoa into the strainer and then tap it as I move it across the dish.

• The reason for delaying the final dusting of cocoa powder is entirely aesthetic. Cocoa powder tends to “melt” into the mascarpone. so it looks best just after it's added.

• As with all dishes that contain uncooked eggs, you need to be careful with this tiramisu. Use eggs you can trust; don’t let leftovers linger; and if your health is such that a food-borne illness would pose a significant risk, use pasteurized eggs.

Penne with Spinach, Walnuts, and Gorgonzola

(serves two adults and two children)

If you ever get tired of making penne with broccoli raab (my family's quick, meatless standby), try this simple, comforting recipe. The availability of decent chives, crumbled Gorgonzola, and baby spinach in just about every grocery store these days makes preparation a snap. Not so when I was younger!

½ c chopped walnuts
a handful of chives (to make ¼ c chopped)
1 lb dried penne
1 c heavy cream
3½ oz crumbled  Gorgonzola
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
10 oz baby spinach

1. Put on a large pot of salted water to boil.

2. Toast the walnuts on the stovetop or in the oven. Finely chop the chives.

3. Cook the penne in the boiling water until just barely done.

4. Meanwhile, combine the cream and Gorgonzola in a large nonstick skilet. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. When the sauce has thickened a little, add the spinach in batches, stirring it as it wilts.

5. When the penne is done, drain it, reserving some of the pasta water. Add the penne to the skillet along with half of the walnuts and chives. Toss to coat with the sauce, adding some of the reserved pasta water if the sauce seems overly thick. Continue to cook until the pasta has absorbed the sauce, about 2 minutes. Serve  with the remaining walnuts and chives.

Latkes

(serves two adults and two children)

The key to crispy latkes is to squeeze out as much moisture as possible from the potatoes. I've found no better method than to wring them out in a kitchel towel, as though you were wringing out a wet rag. You'll be surprised how much water comes out.

2½ lb russet potatoes
1 large onion
canola oil
4 eggs
¼ c flour
kosher salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
cayenne pepper, to taste
sour cream
applesauce

1. Using a food processor fitted with a shredding disc, shred the scrubbed but unpeeled potatoes. Shred the peeled, trimmed onions. Transfer to a large bowl. Cover with cold water for 20 minutes.

2. Heat ½-inch of canola oil  (about 1½ cups) in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Preheat the oven to 225 degrees Fahrenheit. Line a baking sheet with paper towels.

3. In another large bowl, combine the eggs, flour, salt, pepper, and cayenne. Beat with a fork.

4. Drain the potato-onion mixture in a colander. Working in batches, place some of the potato mixture in a clean kitchen towel and twist hard to remove as much moisture as possible. Add thesquuezed potato mixture as you go to the bowl with the egg mixture. When all of the potato mixture has been squeezed, toss to coat evenly with the egg mixture.

5. When the oil begins to shimmer, use tongs to add two clumps of batter to the skillet. Use a spatula to flatten the clumps into pancakes. Reduce the heat to medium. Cook until the bottom of the pancake has become crisp, about 5 minutes. Flip and cook until the second side has crisped, about another 5 minutes. Transfer to the baking sheet and place in the preheated oven. Return the flame to medium-high until the oil shimmers again. Repeat with the remaining batter.

6. Serve with sour cream and applesauce.

TIP
• The temperature of the oil needs to be hot enough to crisp the pancake yet not so hot that the outside of the pancake burns before the inside cooks. That's why it's important to reduce the heat a little after adding the batter. Exacly how much heat to apply differs from stove to stove and skillet to skillet. Adjust as necessary so that the oil is always burbling around the edges of the pancakes.

Black Bean Burritos

(serves two adults and two children)

The first few times I made this recipe, the burritos came out pretty misshapen. Eventually, I got the hang of rolling,them—but not like they do at my favorite taqueria on Mission in San Francisco.

4 large (ten-inch) flour tortillas
1 can chipotles in adobo sauce
2 Tbs olive oil
1 tsp ground cumin
2 15.5-oz cans black beans
1 pint grape (or cherry) tomatoes
1 lime
1 bunch cilantro
kosher salt
sharp cheddar cheese
baby spinach
sour cream

1. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees Fahrenheit. Wrap the tortillas in aluminum foil and warm in the oven.

2. Puree the chipotles in adobo sauce. Reserving about 1 tablespoon, freeze the remainder for future use.

3. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over a medium flame. Add the cumin and the reserved chipotle puree. Saute briefly. Add the beans and bring to a simmer. then reduce the heat to low.

4. Halve the grape tomatoes and place them in a small bowl. (If using cherry tomatoes, quarter them.) Squeeze one-half of the lime over the tomatoes. Pick the leaves from the cilantro stems and coarsely chop them. Add half of the cilantro to the tomatoes along with a pinch of salt. Toss to combine.

5. Grate about 1 cup of the cheese. Squeeze the remaining lime half over the beans. Add the grated cheese and remaining cilantro. Stir until all of the cheese melts.

6. Remove the tortillas from the oven. Working with one at a time, spoon some beans onto the bottom third of the tortillas, leaving a margin at the bottom. Top the beans with some tomatoes, baby spinach, and a few dabs of sour cream. Fold the bottom edge of the tortilla over the filling. Fold over both side edges. Finally, roll up the burrito.

TIPS
• Chipotles, which are smoked jalapeño peppers, go well with almost any Latin bean dish. Because a full can nearly always contains much more than I need, and because I probably won't be needing more for a little while, I puree and freeze the extra. That way, I can easily chip off a tablespoon or so as I need it.

Pasta with Fresh Clams

(serves two adults and two children)

The quality of this dish depends entirely on the quality of the clams. That’s why I usually make it only when I’m on Cape Cod, where my family vacations in August. If there isn’t a good fish store near you, and all you can get are mangy supermarket clams, you’ve got two choices: Either mail-order the real deal from my friends, Pat and Barbara Woodbury, at woodburyclams.com; or use canned clams to make the lesser but still tasty Spaghetti with Clam Sauce recipe posted elsewhere on this blog. Ordering from Pat and Barbara is a treat, of course, but well worth the cost for a special occasion.

36 littleneck clams (see note below)
2 oz pancetta (or bacon)
6 cloves garlic
1 bunch parsley
1 lb dried pasta (spaghetti or linguine)
¼ c olive oil
1½ c dry white wine
3 Tbs unsalted butter
red pepper flakes, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Wash and dry the clams. Dice the pancetta. Coarsely chop the garlic and parsley.

2. Cook the pasta in boiling salted water until just barely done. Drain and set aside.

3. Meanwhile, in a Dutch oven (or a large skillet fitted with a lid), heat the olive oil over a medium-low flame. After a few minutes, add the clams and raise the flame to medium-high. Cover and cook until the first clams open, which means they are done. Transfer the opened clams to a bowl tented with aluminum foil Add the white wine and butter. Continue cooking the remaining clams, covered, until they open, removing them from the pan as they do.

4. When all the clams have been removed, add the garlic, parsley, red pepper flakes, and black pepper. Simmer the sauce for a minute or two, then add the drained pasta. Toss the pasta to coat and continue cooking for another 2–3 minute so that the pasta can absorb the sauce.

5. Serve the pasta topped with the reserved clams and freshly grated parmesan cheese.

A NOTE ABOUT CLAMS
The most commonly available hardshell clams are littlenecks, cherrystones, and quahogs. They’re all the same species; the only difference is size. Of these, littlenecks are the smallest and most tender. These are the ones that you want, though cherrystones will do in a pinch (use half as many). Under no circumstances should you use quahogs, which are chowder clams.

TIPS
• Monitor the clams closely because they become very chewy when overcooked. I lift the lid every minute or two to check for newly opened clams.

• I use a full teaspoon of red pepper flakes because I like my clam sauce to have some kick to it.

• Don’t skimp on the wine or the parmesan because poor grades will ruin the delicate flavor of the clams. I never cook with a wine that I wouldn’t drink with dinner, and I always use imported Parmigiano-Reggiano. Even if you have to pay $16 a pound for the cheese, the couple of ounces you need will only set you back $2.

Chinese Beef with Asparagus

Other than the obvious vegetable substitution, there really is no difference between this dish and the more familiar beef with broccoli. I just like asparagus better.

(serves two adults and two children)

1 lb New York strip steak
1 lb asparagus
2-inch piece fresh ginger
3 cloves garlic
3 (or more) green onions
2 Tbs peanut oil

The Marinade
1 Tbs rice wine (or dry sherry)
1 Tbs soy sauce
2 Tbs cornstarch
½ tsp sugar

The Sauce
¼ c chicken broth
1 Tbs hoisin sauce
1 Tbs oyster sauce
1 Tbs cornstarch
1 tsp sugar

1. Trim the steak of excess fat. Halve it lengthwise and slice each half thinly to yield bite-size pieces. Combine the ingredients for the marinade in a small bowl, add the beef slices, and mix well. Set aside.

2. Trim the asparagus and slice them into inch-long lengths. Peel and julienne the ginger. Peel the garlic and chop it coarsely. Trim the green onions and slice them into half-inch lengths.

3. Combine the sauce ingredients in a small bowl.

4. Heat the peanut oil in a wok (or large cast-iron skillet) over high heat until it begins to smoke. Add the ginger, garlic, and white parts of the green onions. Stir-fry until the ginger and garlic become fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the beef and stir-fry until it's just cooked through, about another 1-2 minutes depending on the thickness of the beef slices. Remove from the wok.

5. Adding a little more oil if necessary, stir-fry the asparagus until it turns a darker green, about 1 minute. Add a scant ¼ cup of water and cover the wok immediately. Steam the asparagus for 3 minutes, then remove the cover and let the remaining water evaporate.

6. Add the sauce and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to thicken. Add the green parts of the green onions and return the cooked beef. Toss to combine. Once the beef has reheated, serve immediately.

TIPS
• You can also use flank steak for this dish, but I prefer the tenderness of a nicely marbled strip steak.

• Some people deal with the woody ends of asparagus by peeling them to expose the tender core. I rarely have the patience for this, so I use a more brutal method: snapping off the ends of the spears. Tradition holds that a spear will naturally bend (and, if you apply enough force, break) at the spot where the tender tip of the shoot toughens and becomes woody.

• I cook this dish in a wok, and you should, too. Woks are remarkably easy to use (and clean) once you get the hang of them. But if you don’t have one, you can also use a large cast-iron skillet. Remember to let the pan heat first before adding the oil.

Potato Pizza

Once I open a package of yeast, I like to use the whole things. That's why this recipe yields two large pies. If you'd like a little variety, halve the potato topping and use something else for the second pie. I recommend caramelized onions, crumbled Gorgonzola, and olive oil steeped with chopped fresh rosemary. Even easier is ricotta cheese flavored with basil pesto.

(serves a crowd)

The Dough
500 grams flour (about 3¾ cups)
1 pkg active dry yeast
¾ tsp sugar
¾ tsp kosher salt
olive oil

The Topping
3 Tbs kosher salt
5 lb potatoes
2 medium onions, chopped
⅔ c olive oil
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 Tbs fresh rosemary

1. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, yeast, sugar, and salt. Add 1⅓ cups room-temperature water. Using a wooden spoon, stir until the dough is well blended. (It will be a little sticky.) Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough rise until it doubles in size, about 2 hours.

2. Dissolve the 3 tablespoons of salt in 2 quarts water to make a brine. Using a food processor fitted with a slicing blade, slice the potatoes thinly. Soak the potato slices in the brine until they wilt, about 1½ hours.

3. Using a spatula to scrape as necessary, transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface. After forming a rough ball, cut the dough in half and separate the two resulting pieces by 3–4 inches. Cover with a moistened kitchen towel and let rise again for 30 minutes.

4. Preheat the oven to 500 degrees Fahrenheit.

5. Drain the potatoes in a colander, pressing down with your hands to force out any excess moisture. Transfer to a large bowl. Add the chopped onion, olive oil, and pepper. Toss to combine.

6. Using olive oil, lightly coat  two 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheets. Remove the kitchen towel from the dough. Place one of the dough pieces in the center of a baking sheet, inverting it as you go so that the moist side of the dough (the one contacting the wet towel) is facing down and the dry, floured side is facing up. Using your fingers, press the dough out to fill the pan. If any holes develop, pinch them closed. Repeat with the second piece of dough and second baking sheet.

7. Spread the potato mixture over the prepared crusts. (Place a little extra around the edges because they cook more quickly.) Sprinkle evenly with the rosemary.

8. Bake until the crusts pull away from the pan sides and the potatoes are golden brown, about 25–30 minutes.

TIPS
• It takes a little practice to get the hang of spreading out the dough to fill the pan. The key is maintaining an even thickness. Fortunately, the stickiness of the dough makes it simple to mend tears.

Beef Tacos

This is the full-on taco kit experience but fresher and home made (that is, without the MSG). I usually make extra filling so that I can use it later in the week for quesadillas or burritos.

(serves two adults and two children)

The Spice Mix
1 Tbs chili powder
½ tsp ground coriander
½ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp dried oregano
¼ tsp cayenne pepper
kosher salt, to taste

The Beef Filling
1 small onion
3 cloves garlic
1 Tbs canola oil
1 lb ground beef
½ c chicken broth
½ c crushed tomatoes
1 Tbs cider vinegar
1 Tbs brown sugar

The Toppings
iceberg lettuce, shredded
cheddar (or Monterey jack) cheese, shredded
tomatoes, finely diced
avocado, finely diced
red onion, finely chopped
sour cream
hot sauce

1. In a small bowl, combine the ingredients for the spice mix.

2. Chop the onion. Mince the garlic.

3. In a large skillet, heat the oil over a medium-low flame. Add the onion and cook until soft, about 3-4 minutes. Add the garlic and spice mix. Cook, stirring frequently, until the spices become fragrant, about 1 minute. Raise the flame to medium. Add the ground beef and cook until well browned, breaking up clumps with a wooden spoon.

4. When the meat has browned, add the chicken broth, tomatoes, cider vinegar, and brown sugar. Stirring occasionally, simmer until nearly all of the liquid has evaporated but the meet is still moist, about 10-15 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, prepare the toppings. Serve with corn tortillas.

Thai Chicken Soup

There are two unusual ingredients in this recipe for which there are no acceptable substitutes. Fortunately, you can now find them in most large supermarkets. One is fresh lemongrass, which often hides out near the chile peppers. The other is red (or green) curry paste, which usually lives in the ethnic food aisle next to the Chinese ingredients. Look for the Thai Kitchen brand, which keeps nearly indefinitely.

(serves two adults and two children)

3 stalks lemongrass
3 large shallots
1 bunch cilantro
1 Tbs canola oil
3 Tbs fish sauce (nam pla)
4 c chicken broth
2 14-oz cans coconut milk
¼ lb shiitake mushrooms
1 lb boneless chicken breasts
1 Tbs red curry paste (or green curry paste)
juice of 2 limes
1 Tbs sugar

1. Prepare the lemongrass by removing the coarse outer leaves, trimming the tip, and slicing crosswise to produce thin rings. Peel and coarsely chop the shallots. Coarsely chop two-thirds of the cilantro (including the stems). Pick the leaves from the remaining cilantro and reserve.

2. In a large stock pot, heat the oil over a medium flame. Add the lemongrass, shallots, chopped cilantro, and 1 tablespoon of the fish sauce. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the lemongrass and shallots soften, about 3-4 minutes.

3. Before the vegetables begin to brown, stir in the chicken broth and 1 can of the coconut milk. Raise the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, trim and slice the mushrooms and thinly slice the chicken. In a small bowl, combine the red curry paste, lime juice, and remaining 2 tablespoons of fish sauce.

5. Once the soup has finished simmering, use a fine-mesh sieve to strain out the solids. Return the soup to the pot and bring to a simmer.

6. Add the sugar and remaining can of coconut milk. Stir in the mushrooms and cook until just tender, about 2-3 minutes. Add the chicken and cook until no longer pink, about another 2-3 minutes. Remove the soup from the heat.

7. Stir in the curry paste mixture. Serve garnished with the reserved cilantro leaves.

TIPS
• Preparing lemongrass is not unlike preparing leeks. The business part is the thick, tender flesh near the root end.

• This recipe calls for thin slices of chicken breast so that the meat cooks quickly. The easiest way to prepare these is to partially freeze the chicken before slicing it. Ten to fifteen minutes in the freezer usually does the trick..

• Other possible garnishes include sliced jalapeños, sliced green onions, and lime wedges.

Stuffed Acorn Squash

Because it's just as easy to make more, I often double this recipe so that I'll have plenty of leftovers. The squash halves are easy to reheat in the oven, and on a winter's night they go wonderfully with a hearty soup.

(serves two adults and two children)

 ¼ c dried porcini mushrooms
1 demibaguette (or half of a standard baguette)
olive oil
kosher salt
2 Tbs crumbled dried herbs (such as thyme, rosemary, or herbes de Provence)
3 acorn squash
freshly ground black pepper
brown sugar
1 medium onion
1 lb sweet sausage

1. Preheat the oven to 500 degrees Fahrenheit.

2. Place the porcinis in a small bowl and cover with 2 cups boiling water.

3. Remove the ends of the demibaguette and cut the remainder (including the crust) into crouton-sized cubes to yield about 4 cups. Toss with a few tablespoons of olive oil, a little salt, and the crumbled dried herbs. Spread on a baking sheet lined with aluminum foil and toast in the oven until crisp, about 6-8 minutes.

4. Halve the acorn squash and use a spoon to scrape out the seeds. Working with one piece at a time, rub with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with brown sugar (about a tablespoon per squash half). Roast in the oven until just cooked through, about 25-30 minutes.

5. While the squash cooks, remove the porcinis from their soaking liquid (reserving the liquid) and chop coarsely,  Chop the onion.

6. In a large skillet over medium heat, brown the sausage, breaking up any clumps. Remove the sausage meat with a slotted spoon and set aside. In the same skillet (adding a little olive oil if the pan seems dry), sauté the onion until golden brown, about 4-5 minutes. Return the sausage to the skillet along with any accumulated juices. Add the toasted baguette cubes, the porcinis, and their soaking liquid. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the bread cubes absorb all of the liquid, about 1-2 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and let stand for a few minutes as the flavors combine.

7. Distribute the filling evenly among the squash halves and return to the oven. Continue to roast until both the squash and the filling are pleasantly hot. Use the broiler at the end, if you like, to crisp the top.

TIPS
• My method for chopping the baguette is to slice it lengthwise into strips—bisecting the whole into halfs, the halfs into quarters, and the quarters into eighths. Then I cut the strips crosswise into croutons. This way, each crouton has a puff of bread attached to a bit of crust.

• A nice variation is to add a green leafy vegetable (such as kale) to the stuffing. Chop it and sauté it along with the onion.

• As for leftovers, I reheat them in a 300-degree oven for about 45 minutes. The outside layers of squash become hot much more quickly than the core of the stuffing, so I leave the squash in the turned-off oven for about 10-15 minutes while the temperatures equalize.

Stir-fried Tilapia with Black Bean Sauce

Although tilapia has been a supermarket staple for years, I've generally avoided the fish because it tends to be a little bland and rubbery. But in this recipe, those qualities are actually advantages: the taste of the fish never competes with the sauce, and its texture stands up to the relative rough cooking method.

(serves two adults and two children)

3 Tbs black bean sauce with chili (or black bean garlic sauce)
1 Tbs oyster sauce
1 Tbs soy sauce
1 tsp sesame oil
1 tsp rice vinegar
1 lb tilapia filets
1 bunch green onions
1 Tbs peanut oil

1. In a mixing bowl, combine the black bean sauce, oyster sauce, soy sauce, sesame oil, and rice vinegar. Cut each tilapia filet in half lengthwise, then cut each half into 2-inch slices. Add the slices to the marinade and toss gently to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand for at least 20 minutes. Meanwhile, trim and slice the green onions into 1-inch lengths.

2. in a wok (or large nonstick skillet), heat the peanut oil over a high flame until very hot. (The oil should be shimmering.) Add the fish pieces. Distribute them evenly around the pan but do not stir. After 3 minutes, add the green onions and stir gently, turning the fish pieces over. Cook, stirring occasionally but gently, until the thickest parts of the fish are cooked through, about another 3 minutes. Serve over rice with an Asian chili sauce such as Sriracha.

TIP
• If you don't like black bean sauce, don't worry. Almost any Asian cooking sauce will do. The first time I made this recipe, I was out of black bean sauce, so I substituted chili paste with garlic. The result was a very enjoyable take on Kung Pao fish.

Black Bean Soup

Because of all the beans, this soup can end up thick, but it dilutes easily with a little chicken stock or water.

1 lb dried black beans
4 oz bacon
3 Tbs canola oil
1 large carrot
1 large onion
4 cloves garlic
4 c chicken broth
1 Tbs sherry
1 Tbs sherry vinegar
1 tsp Tabasco sauce
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper

1. Pick over the beans to remove any stones. Rinse well. Place in a stock pot and add 6 cups cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cook for two minutes, then remove from the heat, cover, and let sit for 1 hour.Transfer the beans and their cooking liquid to a large bowl..

2. Finely dice the bacon. Wipe the stock pot dry with a paper towel. Add the canola oil and sauté the bacon over medium-low heat until the fat has rendered, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, finely dice the carrot and onion and mince the garlic. Once the bacon fat has rendered, add the carrot, onion, and garlic and sweat for 15 minutes.

3. Add the chicken stock, reserved beans, and bean water (there should be about 4 cups). Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 1½–2 hours. Remove from the heat.

4. Once the soup has cooled a little, use an immersion blender or a food processor to puree to your desired consistency. Finish with sherry, sherry vinegar, Tabasco, salt, and pepper to taste. (The amounts listed above are merely suggestions.) Serve with garnishes such as chopped onion, cilantro, sour cream, or chopped hard-boiled egg.

TIPS
• Replacing some of the chicken stock with beer or red wine gives the soup a richer flavor.

• To make a vegetarian version, omit the bacon and instead add a bit of dried chipotle pepper and some shaved dark chocolate to give the soup a deep, smoky tang. (Chipotles are smoked jalapeno peppers.)

Fruitcake

I started making this recipe after buying on a whim a piece of cooking equipment from a company called Nordic Ware. Made out of heavy-duty cast aluminum, it's a baking pan comprised of two 5-cup bundt pans, each of which has a fun decorative design. But even more fun than the pan is what goes in it. Not your mother's fruitcakes, these little gems are tender, flavorful, and make excellent gifts.

4 oz dried apricots
3 oz dried currants
3 oz assorted dried fruit (such as pineapple, apple, or mango)
zest of an orange, grated
¾ c dark rum
5 oz unbleached flour
½ tsp ground allspice
½ tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp ground cardamom
¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg (or slightly less ground nutmeg)
large pinch of ground cloves
10 Tbs unsalted butter
1 c brown sugar
3 eggs, at room temperature
½ tsp vanilla extract
¼ tsp kosher salt
3½ oz crystallized ginger
¼ c dark rum

1. Chop the dried fruit as necessary into small (¼- to ½-inch) pieces. Place in a saucepan with the grated orange zest and rum. Cover and cook over medium heat until the rum has been absorbed, about 2-3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. Refrigerate for at least 24 hours and up to 3 days. Before proceeding, remove from the refrigerator and warm to room temperature.

2. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Using vegetable shortening or a canola-oil spray, grease two 5-cup bundt pans and flour them, knocking out any excess.

3. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, allspice, cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, and cloves.

4. Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar at medium-high speed until the butter is fluffy and no lumps of sugar remain, pausing to scrape down the bowl as necessary, about 2-3 minutes. Add the eggs, one and a time, scraping down the bowl and beating for 30-60 seconds following each addition. Beat in the vanilla extract and salt.

5. Add 2 tablespoons of the flour mixture and beat to incorporate. Reserving 2 additional tablespoons, add the remaining flour and beat on low speed long enough to moisten the flour (so that it doesn't fly up in your face). Returning the mixer to medium-high speed, beat for 1 minute.

6. Chop the crystallized ginger into small pieces. Combine with the macerated fruit. Remove the paddle attachment and place the fruit on top of the batter. Sprinkle with the reserved flour. Using a spatula, fold the fruit into the batter so that the fruit is evenly distributed. Scrape the batter into the prepared pans, pressing down as you go to eliminate air pockets.

7. Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 300 degrees Fahrenheit and continue baking until a knife inserted into the center of each cake comes out clean (or with just a few moist crumbs), about another 1½ hours.

8. Remove the pan from the oven and cool on a rack for at least 30 minutes. Invert the pan and tap gently to remove the cakes. Place each cake on a large piece of plastic wrap and baste with 2 tablespoons dark rum. Cover tightly with the plastic wrap and cover the plastic wrap tightly with aluminum foil. Store at room temperature for at least 2 days before serving with freshly whipped cream.

TIPS
• For obvious reasons, freshly grated nutmeg produces a much better result than the ground variety your grandmother used to keep in that small tin on her spice shelf. (You're not still trying to use that tin up, are you?) Instead, buy your nutmeg whole and grate it as you need it. Microplame rasps make quick work of the task,

• Adding a little flour to the batter before adding the bulk of the flour helps to emulsify and aerate the batter.

• If you plan to store the cakes for longer than a week, you need to continue basting them. Do so once a week, using an additional 1-2 tablespoons of rum and changing the wrappings each time.

Emergency Chicken Rub

One night, when I had neglected to plan ahead for dinner, I bought several bone-in chickn breasts and threw together this rub. It was a big hit, so I saved the recipe. The name comes from my daughter, Abigail, who believes that no plans for dinner constitutes an emergency.

½ cup brown sugar
¼ cup seasoned salt
2 Tbs paprika
2 Tbs freshly ground black pepper
1 Tbs garlic powder
1 Tbs dry mustard
2 tsp cayenne pepper

1. Combine all of the rub ingredients. Store in a sealed glass jar.

TIP
• Remove the skin from the breast before applying the rub.

Grandma's Rugelach

I grew up on these Hanukkah cookies and, fortunately, inherited the recipe from my grandmother.

2 c flour
½ c confectioners' sugar
½ tsp fresh lemon juice
½ tsp vanilla extract
2 4-oz sticks unsalted butter, softened
1 8-oz pkg cream cheese (preferably Philadelphia)
granulated sugar
ground cinnamon
1 c small walnut pieces
1 c currants (or raisins)
1 egg, beaten

1. Into the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, measure the flour, confectioner's sugar, lemon juice, and vanilla extract. Cut each stick of butter into eight pieces and add to the food processor. Cut the block of cream cheese into eight pieces and add to the food processor. Pulse until the dough is well blended and collects in a ball.

2. Remove the dough from the food processor and shape into a ball. (If the dough seems overly sticky, knead in a little more flour.) Seal the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least an hour.

3. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

4. Cut the dough into quarters. Working with one quarter at a time, roll the dough into an 8-inch-by-10-inch rectangle. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon granulated sugar and a few shakes of ground cinnamon over the rectangle. Rub in with the palm of your hand.

5. Spread one-quarter of the walnuts and one-quarter of the currants evenly over the dough, leaving a margin of about one inch on each of the short sides and about three inches on the top. (In other words, the area covered should be about eight inches across by five inches high.) Press the nuts and currants into the dough so that they don't slide around. Beginning at the bottom, roll the dough to create a tight cylinder (as though the dough were a cigar wrapper). Seal by pinching at the seam and at the two ends. Place the log seam-side up on a platter and refrigerate while repeating this procedure with the remaining dough quarters.

6. Brush the top of each log with the beaten egg and sprinkle with additional granulated sugar. Refrigerate for about 15 minutes, then slice each log into 8–10 inch-thick rounds.

7. Place the cookies on baking sheets lined with silicon mats (or parchment paper). Bake until golden brown, about 25–30 minutes.

TIPS
• It's important that the sides of the dough rectangle be roughly parallel. You can achieve this easily by folding any unevenness back into the rectangle.

• Because currants (and raisins) tend to stick together, I microwave them first for 20-30 seconds. This loosens and also plumps them.