Showing posts with label Recipes: Dessert. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Recipes: Dessert. Show all posts

Monday, January 30, 2012

Tiramisu

I spent more than a few years searching for a tiramisu recipe that measured up to restaurant fare. My attempts were either too soggy or too complicated. Then I found this recipe. The only way to mess it up is to use the wrong ingredients. Most importantly, use hard Italian ladyfinger cookies, not the spongy Twinkie-style cakes that supermarket bakeries call ladyfingers. (I buy the Vantia brand.) The rest is easy.

4 c coffee, brewed double-strength
1 c plus 2 Tbs sugar
¼ c rum
4 eggs, separated
16 oz mascarpone
48 hard Italian ladyfinger cookies
3 Tbs cocoa powder

1. Brew the coffee. While the coffee is still hot, stir in 2 tablespoons of the sugar and set aside. When the coffee has cooled, stir in the rum.

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg yolks and the remaining sugar on medium-high until the yolks are pale and fluffy, about 4–5 minutes. Add the mascarpone and continue beating until smooth, another 2–3 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.

3. Wash and dry the bowl and whisk of the stand mixer thoroughly. Beat the egg whites on medium-high until they form stiff peaks, about 3–4 minutes. Gently fold the beaten egg whites, one large dollop at a time into the mascarpone mixture.

4. Arrange on your countertop the ladyfingers, coffee, and a large Pyrex baking dish (about 10” by 15”). Submerge a ladyfingers in the coffee for 2–3 seconds (see tip below). Then place it neatly in the bottom of the baking dish. Continue until you have formed a complete layer, breaking cookies to fit if necessary. (This should use up half of the cookies.)

5. Spread half of the mascarpone mixture evenly over the ladyfingers. Top with 2 tablespoons of the cocoa powder (see tip below).

6. Using the same method as above, add a second layer of soaked ladyfingers. Top with the remaining mascarpone mixture (but not with any more cocoa powder). Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least two hours.

7. Before serving, top with the remaining tablespoon of cocoa powder.

TIPS
• To brew double-strength coffee, simply brew as you normally would but use twice as much ground coffee. Use an espresso roast if you have it.

• Don't be tempted to oversoak the ladyfingers. They should still be firm when you remove them from the coffee (they will soften considerably as the liquid soaks through them). You'll know you've soaked them long enough if, by the time you finish a layer, the first cookies are spongy. You'll know you've soaked them too long if they fall apart in your hands.

• Instead of a large baking dish, you can use two loaf pans, making three layers in each.

• To apply the cocoa powder evenly, you can use a sifter. But I find sifters cumbersome, so I use a small mesh strainer (the one I use was originally designed to cover a sink drain). I spoon the cocoa into the strainer and then tap it as I move it across the dish.

• The reason for delaying the final dusting of cocoa powder is entirely aesthetic. Cocoa powder tends to “melt” into the mascarpone. so it looks best just after it's added.

• As with all dishes that contain uncooked eggs, you need to be careful with this tiramisu. Use eggs you can trust; don’t let leftovers linger; and if your health is such that a food-borne illness would pose a significant risk, use pasteurized eggs.

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Fruitcake

I started making this recipe after buying on a whim a piece of cooking equipment from a company called Nordic Ware. Made out of heavy-duty cast aluminum, it's a baking pan comprised of two 5-cup bundt pans, each of which has a fun decorative design. But even more fun than the pan is what goes in it. Not your mother's fruitcakes, these little gems are tender, flavorful, and make excellent gifts.

4 oz dried apricots
3 oz dried currants
3 oz assorted dried fruit (such as pineapple, apple, or mango)
zest of an orange, grated
¾ c dark rum
5 oz unbleached flour
½ tsp ground allspice
½ tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp ground cardamom
¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg (or slightly less ground nutmeg)
large pinch of ground cloves
10 Tbs unsalted butter
1 c brown sugar
3 eggs, at room temperature
½ tsp vanilla extract
¼ tsp kosher salt
3½ oz crystallized ginger
¼ c dark rum

1. Chop the dried fruit as necessary into small (¼- to ½-inch) pieces. Place in a saucepan with the grated orange zest and rum. Cover and cook over medium heat until the rum has been absorbed, about 2-3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. Refrigerate for at least 24 hours and up to 3 days. Before proceeding, remove from the refrigerator and warm to room temperature.

2. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Using vegetable shortening or a canola-oil spray, grease two 5-cup bundt pans and flour them, knocking out any excess.

3. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, allspice, cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, and cloves.

4. Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar at medium-high speed until the butter is fluffy and no lumps of sugar remain, pausing to scrape down the bowl as necessary, about 2-3 minutes. Add the eggs, one and a time, scraping down the bowl and beating for 30-60 seconds following each addition. Beat in the vanilla extract and salt.

5. Add 2 tablespoons of the flour mixture and beat to incorporate. Reserving 2 additional tablespoons, add the remaining flour and beat on low speed long enough to moisten the flour (so that it doesn't fly up in your face). Returning the mixer to medium-high speed, beat for 1 minute.

6. Chop the crystallized ginger into small pieces. Combine with the macerated fruit. Remove the paddle attachment and place the fruit on top of the batter. Sprinkle with the reserved flour. Using a spatula, fold the fruit into the batter so that the fruit is evenly distributed. Scrape the batter into the prepared pans, pressing down as you go to eliminate air pockets.

7. Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 300 degrees Fahrenheit and continue baking until a knife inserted into the center of each cake comes out clean (or with just a few moist crumbs), about another 1½ hours.

8. Remove the pan from the oven and cool on a rack for at least 30 minutes. Invert the pan and tap gently to remove the cakes. Place each cake on a large piece of plastic wrap and baste with 2 tablespoons dark rum. Cover tightly with the plastic wrap and cover the plastic wrap tightly with aluminum foil. Store at room temperature for at least 2 days before serving with freshly whipped cream.

TIPS
• For obvious reasons, freshly grated nutmeg produces a much better result than the ground variety your grandmother used to keep in that small tin on her spice shelf. (You're not still trying to use that tin up, are you?) Instead, buy your nutmeg whole and grate it as you need it. Microplame rasps make quick work of the task,

• Adding a little flour to the batter before adding the bulk of the flour helps to emulsify and aerate the batter.

• If you plan to store the cakes for longer than a week, you need to continue basting them. Do so once a week, using an additional 1-2 tablespoons of rum and changing the wrappings each time.

Friday, December 10, 2010

Grandma's Rugelach

I grew up on these Hanukkah cookies and, fortunately, inherited the recipe from my grandmother.

2 c flour
½ c confectioners' sugar
½ tsp fresh lemon juice
½ tsp vanilla extract
2 4-oz sticks unsalted butter, softened
1 8-oz pkg cream cheese (preferably Philadelphia)
granulated sugar
ground cinnamon
1 c small walnut pieces
1 c currants (or raisins)
1 egg, beaten

1. Into the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, measure the flour, confectioner's sugar, lemon juice, and vanilla extract. Cut each stick of butter into eight pieces and add to the food processor. Cut the block of cream cheese into eight pieces and add to the food processor. Pulse until the dough is well blended and collects in a ball.

2. Remove the dough from the food processor and shape into a ball. (If the dough seems overly sticky, knead in a little more flour.) Seal the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least an hour.

3. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

4. Cut the dough into quarters. Working with one quarter at a time, roll the dough into an 8-inch-by-10-inch rectangle. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon granulated sugar and a few shakes of ground cinnamon over the rectangle. Rub in with the palm of your hand.

5. Spread one-quarter of the walnuts and one-quarter of the currants evenly over the dough, leaving a margin of about one inch on each of the short sides and about three inches on the top. (In other words, the area covered should be about eight inches across by five inches high.) Press the nuts and currants into the dough so that they don't slide around. Beginning at the bottom, roll the dough to create a tight cylinder (as though the dough were a cigar wrapper). Seal by pinching at the seam and at the two ends. Place the log seam-side up on a platter and refrigerate while repeating this procedure with the remaining dough quarters.

6. Brush the top of each log with the beaten egg and sprinkle with additional granulated sugar. Refrigerate for about 15 minutes, then slice each log into 8–10 inch-thick rounds.

7. Place the cookies on baking sheets lined with silicon mats (or parchment paper). Bake until golden brown, about 25–30 minutes.

TIPS
• It's important that the sides of the dough rectangle be roughly parallel. You can achieve this easily by folding any unevenness back into the rectangle.

• Because currants (and raisins) tend to stick together, I microwave them first for 20-30 seconds. This loosens and also plumps them.

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Party Cake

This light, sweet cake suits any celebration, but I especially like to make it during strawberry season. You can use all-purpose flour, if you like, but using cake flour ensures a soft texture and delicate crumb.

2¼ cups cake flour
1 Tbs baking powder
½ tsp kosher salt
1¼ cups buttermilk (or whole milk)
4 large egg whites
1 stick unsalted butter, at room temperature
1½ cups sugar
1 pint (or more) strawberries
1 pint (or more) heavy cream
confectioners' sugar, to taste

1. Place a rack in the center of the oven. Preheat to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

2. Butter two 9-inch round cake pans. Cut circles from parchment paper to fit. Place in the cake pans and butter.

3. In a mixing bowl, sift together the cake flour, baking powder, and salt.

4. In another mixing bowl, whisk togehter the buttermilk and egg whites.

5. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a large bowl using a hand mixer), beat the butter and sugar at medium speed until the sugar dissolves and the butter becomes pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes.

6. With the mixer still running, add one-third of the dry ingredients. When these have been incorporated, add one-half of the wet ingredients, again mixing until incorporated. Repeat, alternating between dry ingredients and wet ingredients, until all have been added. Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Beat for 2 additional minutes to ensure that the batter is smooth and well aerated.

7. Divide the batter evenly between the twio pans. Shake them gently from side to side to spread out the batter. Bake until a knife inserted in the center of each layer comes out clean, about 30–35 minutes. Transfer the pans to a rack and let cool.

8. If the sides of the cooled layers haven't already pulled away from the pans, release them by running a knife around the outside edges of the layers. To unmold, invert the layers onto platters. Remove the parchment liners.

9. Trim and slice the strawberries, reserving a few whole berries for decoration. Whip the heavy cream, adding confectioners' sugar as you go to taste. Frost one of the layers with about half of the whipped cream. Top with the sliced berries. Place the second layer on top of the berries. Use the remaining whipped cream to frost the rest of the cake. Decorate the top with the reserved whole berries.


TIPS
• I measure the parchment circles by placing the pan on top of the parchment paper and marking its outline with a pencil. Then I cut with a scissors just inside the pencil line. Close is good enough; better a little small than a little large.

• Although I think this cake tastes best with strawberries, you can easily substitute any kind of fresh, sweet berry—such as raspberries, blackberries, or blueberries.

• You can make the layers a day in advance and store them at room temperature covered in plastic wrap.

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Biscotti Rustica

What I like best about these biscotti is their sophisticated taste. Imagine a lightly, nutty, crunchy fruitcake.

(makes 36 biscotti)

1-2 oz crystallized ginger
1 c mixed dried fruit (such as currants and golden raisins)
grated zest of one lemon
2 Tbs brandy
¾ c slivered almonds
3½ c flour
¼ c cornmeal
2 c sugar
1 Tbs baking powder
¼ tsp kosher salt
3 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
1 tsp vanilla extract
turbinado sugar (see tip below)

1. Chop the crystallized ginger into pea-sized pieces. Combine in a small bowl with the dried fruit, lemon zest, and brandy. Let sit for at least 20 minutes. Meanwhile, toast the almonds.

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, and salt. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, and vanilla extract, reserving an egg white for the glaze.

3. With the mixer on low, pour the wet ingredients into the dry, mixing just enough to combine. Avoid the temptation to continue mixing even though the dough seems crumbly. Add the macerated fruit and toasted almonds. Continue mixing until the dough begins to come together in a ball. Let the dough rest for 15 minutes.

4. Preheat the over to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Line two baking sheets with silicon mats or parchment paper.

5. On a lightly floured countertop, shape the rested dough into four equal logs about eight inches long and two inches in diameter. (If the dough is sticky, you can dust it with a little flour, but try to use as little flour as possible.) Flatten each log slightly so that its cross-section is an oval rather than a circle. Place two of the logs on each of the baking sheets.

6. Beat the reserved egg white with a fork. Brush the top of each log with enough beaten white to make it sticky, then sprinkle each with turbinado sugar.

7. Bake the logs until golden brown on the outside and firm in the center, about 30 minutes. (Rotate the sheets every 10-15 minutes to ensure even baking.) Remove from the oven and let cool for 10-15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

8. Once the logs have cooled, gently slice them crosswise to create biscotti about ¾-inch thick. Return the biscotti to the baking sheets cut-side down and bake for another 20-25 minutes, flipping them and rotating the sheets about halfway through. The biscotti are done when they have turned a rich golden brown on both sides. Remove from the oven and cool completely on the sheets before storing in an airtight container.

TIPS
• Turbinado sugar, also known as “sugar in the raw,” has large crystals that adhere nicely to the tops of the biscotti. They add a nice sweet crunch, in the same way that large sea salt crystals enhance focaccia.

• These biscotti cut easier if you use a serrated knife.

Chocolate Biscotti

I suspect that, like tomatoes grown to be shipped, commercial biscotti are baked for travel rather than for taste. Even so, the ones I’ve tried have been so brick-hard they could probably scratch glass. They’re also expensive, which is another reason to make them yourself. Depending on your mood, you can bake either these chocolate biscotti or my gingery biscotti rustica (recipe posted separately).

(makes 24 biscotti)

2 large eggs at room temperature
4 Tbs unsalted butter, melted but not hot
1 tsp vanilla extract
1½ c flour
¾ c sugar
1 tsp baking powder
¼ tsp kosher salt
½ c cocoa powder
1 Tbs instant espresso powder
¾ c semisweet chocolate chips
¾ c pine nuts (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Line a baking sheet with a silicon mat or parchment paper.

2. Using a fork, beat together the eggs, melted butter, and vanilla extract.

3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine at a low speed the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, cocoa powder, and espresso powder. With the paddle still turning, add the chocolate chips and pine nuts (if using), then drizzle in the egg mixture. Continue mixing until a dough ball forms.

4. On a lightly floured countertop, shape the dough into two eight-inch logs. Flatten each slightly so that its cross-section is an oval rather than a circle.

5. Place the logs on the baking sheet and bake until firm, about 35 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool for 10-15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

6. Once the logs have cooled, gently slice them crosswise to create biscotti about ¾-inch thick. Return the biscotti to the baking sheet cut-side down and bake for 10 minutes. Flip and bake until done, another 5-10 minutes. Cool on a wire rack before storing in an airtight container.

TIPS
• The eggs should be at room temperature so that they don’t cause the melted butter to congeal. (A quick way to warm eggs is to place them in a bowl of warm water.) Similarly, the melted butter should be cool so that it doesn’t cook the eggs.

• If you don’t have a stand mixer, use a whisk to combine the dry ingredients, then form a well in the center of the mixing bowl. Pour in the egg mixture and use your fingers to knead the dough as you would when making fresh pasta. Form the logs and continue as above.

• Handle the once-cooked biscotti logs delicately while slicing them because the dough will still be crumbly.

• Experiment with different nuts. Pecans also work well, but I recommend toasting them first.

Monday, February 8, 2010

Oatmeal Cookies

We hosted a skating party for our kids and some of their friends this weekend. About four-thirty, we realized that we’d forgotten about dessert. By five, these cookies were ready. They’re always a big hit—with grownups, too.

(makes 24-30 cookies)

1 c nuts (such as pecans or walnuts)
1 c dried fruit (such as raisins or sour cherries)
1½ c old-fashioned oats
1 c bittersweet chocolate chips
1 c flour
¾ tsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
½ tsp kosher salt
12 Tbs unsalted butter, softened
1½ c dark brown sugar
1 egg
1 tsp vanilla extract

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Line two baking sheets with silicon mats or parchment paper.

2. Toast the nuts. Let them cool, then chop coarsely. Chop the fruit coarsely.

3. In a mixing bowl, combine the nuts and fruit with the oats and chocolate chips. In a second bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.

4. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar at medium speed until the sugar dissolves, about 1 minute. Reduce the speed to low, add the egg and vanilla. Beat until fully combined, about another 30 seconds.

5. With the mixer still running, gradually add the flour mixture and then the oats mixture. Mix until just combined. Using a spatula, scrape down the sides of the bowl, incorporating any leftover dry ingredients into the batter.

6. Pinch off a golf ball-sized piece of batter and roll it in the palms of your hands to form a tight ball. Flatten slightly and place on a baking sheet. Continue until there is no batter left.

7. Bake until the edge of the cookies have set but the centers are still soft, about 12-15 minutes. Let the cookies cool a little on the baking sheets before transferring them to a rack.

TIPS
• If you don’t have a stand mixer, a hand mixer and large mixing bowl will do.

• Be careful not to overbake these cookies, which should be a little chewy.

Friday, January 22, 2010

Chocolate Bonbon Cake

My feeling is that, if you’re going to eat things that are bad for you, those things should taste really, really good. This cake tastes that good, and it’s fancy, too. Some restaurants call it a chocolate mousse cake because its lack of flour makes it seem more like a baked mousse thank a cake. My daughter, Abigail, calls it a chocolate bonbon cake because when she was just learning to read, she confuses bourbon with bonbon, and the name stuck.

12 oz high-quality semisweet chocolate
12 Tbs unsalted butter
6 eggs, separated
¾ c brown sugar
¼ c flour
4 Tbs bourbon
1 tsp vanilla extract
½ tsp kosher salt
confectioner’s sugar

1. Place an oven rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

2. Unlock a nine-inch springform pan so that the bottom separates from the ring (the sides). Cover the bottom with extra-wide, heavy-duty aluminum foil so that there is an outside margin of several inches. Press the foil down to reveal the rim of the bottom but don’t wrap the foil under the bottom. Return the bottom to the ring and relock the pan. Place the pan on a second large piece of foil and fold both foil layers up so that they cover at least half the height of the ring. (This application of foil prevents seepage from the water bath in which the cake is baked.)

3. Butter the inside of the springform pan. Add a parchment-paper liner to the bottom and butter this as well. Set the prepared pan inside a larger roasting pan.

4. Melt the chocolate and the butter (see tip below). Stir to combine.

5. Using a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment (or a hand mixer), beat the egg yolks and brown sugar on medium until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes.

6. Reduce the mixer speed to low. Add the melted chocolate and butter and mix until just combined. Add the flour, and mix until just combined. Add the bourbon and vanilla extract and mix until just combined.

7. Transfer the batter to a mixing bowl. Clean and dry the stand mixer, then beat the egg whites and salt on high until the whites form soft peaks, about a minute.

8. After carefully folding the whipped egg whites into the batter, transfer the batter to the springform pan and place the springform pan/roasting pan assembly in the middle of the oven. Before closing the oven door, add enough hot tap water to the roasting pan so that the water covers half the thickness of the cake, about 1½ inches.

9. Bake until the center of the cake is set, about 50-55 minutes. Remove the springform pan from the water bath and let it cool on a rack. When the cake has cooled completely, unlock the ring and, using a suitably flat platter, invert the cake so that the top becomes the bottom. Peel off the parchment paper, and dust the top of the cake with confectioner’s sugar. Serve at room temperature.

TIPS
• The “proper” way to melt the chocolate and butter is in a double-boiler (which can be as simple as a metal bowl set inside a pot of simmering water). But I usually use the microwave, which works fine as long as you’re careful. If you leave the microwave on too long, either you’ll scorch the chocolate, ruining its taste, or the butter will “pop,” sending it all over the inside of your oven. I guard against these unpleasant outcomes by remove the mixtures and stirring it every 15-20 seconds. Whichever method you use, remember that you needn’t heat the chocolate until every last morsel is melted. Residual heat will take care of any graininess.

• For this cake, I like to use Maker’s Mark bourbon, but you can substitute another whiskey (Jack Daniels) or a liqueur (Grand Marnier, Cointreau, Fra Angelico).

• An easy way to cut this cake neatly is to use a long strand of dental floss. Cut wedges by pulling the floss down from the top. Remove it by pulling the floss through the cake horizontally.

• Because chocolate loses flavor as it gets colder, be sure to serve this cake at room temperature. (Think of the difference in taste between a cold chocolate bar and a piece of chocolate melting in your mouth.)