Over the weekend in DC, I served this dish to a group of Habitat for Humanity friends that my wife, Julia, and I made last year at the Carter Work Project in Thailand. Reminded us all of Chiang Mai.
(serves 12 as an appetizer)
2 pork tenderloins (about 2 lb)
The Marinade
2 Tbs coriander seeds
2 tsp cumin seeds
¼ c canola oil
¼ c coconut milk
2 Tbs fish sauce (nam pla)
2-inch piece fresh ginger, grated
6 cloves garlic, grated
2 Tbs sugar
2 tsp turmeric
1 tsp ground cinnamon
The Dipping Sauce
1 14-oz can (less ¼ c) coconut milk
½ c peanut butter (oreferably smooth)
2 Tbs red curry paste (or green curry paste)
1. Place the pork tenderloins in the freezer until they are firm but not frozen, about 30 minutes. Cut each in half crosswise to yield shorter "logs" about 4-5 inches long. With one hand pressing the pork down into a cutting board and the other holding a sharp knife parallel to the board, cut each lengthwise into 1/8-inch-thick slices. ( Each piece should yield about 9 slices, or 36 slices in all.)
2. In a small skillet over medium heat, toast the coriander and cumin seeds until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. When the spices have cooled a bit, grind them in a spice mill (or crush them with a mortar and pestle).
3. In a mixing bowl, combine the ground spices with the rest of the marinade ingredients. Add the pork and toss to coat. Marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour or up to 1 day.
4, Prepare the dipping sauce (which can also be made in advance and refrigerated). In a small saucepan over low heat, combine the coconut milk, peanut butter, and curry paste. Simmer until the flavors combine and deepen, about 20 minutes.
6. Soak the skewers in water for at least 30 minutes so that they don't burn.
5. Preheat the grill to high. Thread each marinated pork slice onto a skewer. Cook until slightly charred on one side, about 3-4 minutes. Turn and cook until done, about 3 more minutes. Serve with the dipping sauce, which can be either warm or at room temperature.
TIPS
• It's nearly impossible to find fresh Thai ingredients in this country (have you ever seen a kaffir lime leaf?), so I don't even try. Instead, I buy the little jars of red and green curry paste sold under the Thai Kitchen brand. These pastes contain kaffir lime leaves, galangal, and a host of other hard-to-find ingredients. Admittedly, it's a convenience food, but I compromise because it's such a great convenience.
• Don't let the coconut milk quantity for the dipping sauce throw you. The point is that I don't want you to open a second can for this recipe. Take 1/4 cup for the marinade and then simply use the rest of the can for the dipping sauce.
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
Carrot Sambal
If you’re tired of cole slaw, this slightly spicy side dish goes beautifully with barbecue.
(serves 6–8 as a side dish)
4 cloves garlic
1 jalapeno pepper
¼ c canola oil
¼ c sugar
4 tsp fish sauce
juice of one lime
1 lb organic carrots (see tip below)
2 scallions, trimmed and chopped
a small handful of fresh cilantro, coarsely chopped
1. Smash the garlic with the flat side of a large knife, then peel and trim each clove. Trim the jalapeno, remove the seeds, and mince the flesh.
2. In a skillet set over low heat, cook the garlic and jalapeno in the canola oil until the garlic begins to brown, about 8–10 minutes. Remove from the heat. Stir in the sugar and let cool. Complete the dressing by whisking in the fish sauce and lime juice.
3. Meanwhile, wash, trim, and shred the carrots in a food processor. Add the scallions and cilantro. Toss with the dressing.
TIPS
• I specify organic carrots primarily because you don’t need to peel them. That’s a big plus when recipes like this one call for carrots in quantity.
• Carrot sambal (made with carrots from our garden) has become such a staple in our house that I’ve had to develop a variation, just so we don’t get bored. I add 2 inches of fresh ginger, peeled and minced, along with ½ teaspoon of ground cardamom to the simmering oil. The resulting sambal has a nice, refreshing tang.
(serves 6–8 as a side dish)
4 cloves garlic
1 jalapeno pepper
¼ c canola oil
¼ c sugar
4 tsp fish sauce
juice of one lime
1 lb organic carrots (see tip below)
2 scallions, trimmed and chopped
a small handful of fresh cilantro, coarsely chopped
1. Smash the garlic with the flat side of a large knife, then peel and trim each clove. Trim the jalapeno, remove the seeds, and mince the flesh.
2. In a skillet set over low heat, cook the garlic and jalapeno in the canola oil until the garlic begins to brown, about 8–10 minutes. Remove from the heat. Stir in the sugar and let cool. Complete the dressing by whisking in the fish sauce and lime juice.
3. Meanwhile, wash, trim, and shred the carrots in a food processor. Add the scallions and cilantro. Toss with the dressing.
TIPS
• I specify organic carrots primarily because you don’t need to peel them. That’s a big plus when recipes like this one call for carrots in quantity.
• Carrot sambal (made with carrots from our garden) has become such a staple in our house that I’ve had to develop a variation, just so we don’t get bored. I add 2 inches of fresh ginger, peeled and minced, along with ½ teaspoon of ground cardamom to the simmering oil. The resulting sambal has a nice, refreshing tang.
Bouillabaisse
This is a great dish for a crowd. The name may be fancy, but it’s really just a simple seafood stew. Note, however, that the recipe sinks or swims with the freshness of the ingredients, so I make it only when I’m near the ocean.
(serves eight to ten)
The Fish and Seafood
1 lb white steak fish (such as swordfish and halibut)
1 lb bivalves (such as mussels and small clams)
1 lb shrimp
1 lb squid
1 small lobster (optional)
The Stew Base
3 large leeks, white part only
1 medium onion
6 cloves garlic
½ c olive oil
2 c chicken stock
1 c white wine
1 c water
2 28-oz cans diced tomatoes
a large handful of fresh parsley, coarsely chopped
several sprigs of fresh rosemary or thyme
Tabasco sauce, to taste
The Finish
½ c brandy
kosher salt
freshly ground pepper
a small handful of fresh dill, coarsely chopped
1. Prep the fish and shellfish. For the fish, remove any skin and cut the steaks into large chunks. For the bivalves, scrub the shells and debeard the mussels (see tip below). For the shrimp, shell and devein. For the squid, clean and slice the bodies into rings. For the lobster, kill and quarter (see tip below).
2. Rinse the leeks well, slice into thin rings, and rinse again. Peel and coarsely chop the onion and garlic.
3. In a large stockpot over a medium-low flame, heat the oil. Sauté the leeks, onion, and garlic until the leeks and onion have wilted, about 10–15 minutes.
4. Add the chicken stock, wine, water, tomatoes, parsley, rosemary or thyme, and Tabasco. Raise the heat to medium-high and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 10 minutes, adjusting the heat as necessary.
5. Add the fish and seafood, cover, and simmer for another 30 minutes.
6. Uncover. Add the brandy. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the dill. Serve with crusty bread.
TIPS
• It’s important to rinse the leeks after they’re chopped because dirt often gets trapped between the various layers of growth.
• The beard of a mussels is the little bit of algae-like fuzz attached to the concave side of the shell. Commercially raised mussels often don’t have beards, but wild ones do. To remove the beard, simply give it a tug.
• The best way to quarter a live lobster is to get it over with quickly. Start by cutting through the top of its body between its eyes. This kills it instantly. A good description of the process, complete with photos, can be found at HYPERLINK "http://www.cooking-lobster.com/cooking-lobster/lobster-killing.html" http://www.cooking-lobster.com/cooking-lobster/lobster-killing.html.
(serves eight to ten)
The Fish and Seafood
1 lb white steak fish (such as swordfish and halibut)
1 lb bivalves (such as mussels and small clams)
1 lb shrimp
1 lb squid
1 small lobster (optional)
The Stew Base
3 large leeks, white part only
1 medium onion
6 cloves garlic
½ c olive oil
2 c chicken stock
1 c white wine
1 c water
2 28-oz cans diced tomatoes
a large handful of fresh parsley, coarsely chopped
several sprigs of fresh rosemary or thyme
Tabasco sauce, to taste
The Finish
½ c brandy
kosher salt
freshly ground pepper
a small handful of fresh dill, coarsely chopped
1. Prep the fish and shellfish. For the fish, remove any skin and cut the steaks into large chunks. For the bivalves, scrub the shells and debeard the mussels (see tip below). For the shrimp, shell and devein. For the squid, clean and slice the bodies into rings. For the lobster, kill and quarter (see tip below).
2. Rinse the leeks well, slice into thin rings, and rinse again. Peel and coarsely chop the onion and garlic.
3. In a large stockpot over a medium-low flame, heat the oil. Sauté the leeks, onion, and garlic until the leeks and onion have wilted, about 10–15 minutes.
4. Add the chicken stock, wine, water, tomatoes, parsley, rosemary or thyme, and Tabasco. Raise the heat to medium-high and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 10 minutes, adjusting the heat as necessary.
5. Add the fish and seafood, cover, and simmer for another 30 minutes.
6. Uncover. Add the brandy. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the dill. Serve with crusty bread.
TIPS
• It’s important to rinse the leeks after they’re chopped because dirt often gets trapped between the various layers of growth.
• The beard of a mussels is the little bit of algae-like fuzz attached to the concave side of the shell. Commercially raised mussels often don’t have beards, but wild ones do. To remove the beard, simply give it a tug.
• The best way to quarter a live lobster is to get it over with quickly. Start by cutting through the top of its body between its eyes. This kills it instantly. A good description of the process, complete with photos, can be found at HYPERLINK "http://www.cooking-lobster.com/cooking-lobster/lobster-killing.html" http://www.cooking-lobster.com/cooking-lobster/lobster-killing.html.
Green Curry Game Hens
I use game hens with this Thai-influenced marinade because half a game hen makes a lovely dinner-party serving. But the marinade works equally well with whole chickens.
(serves two adults and two children)
The Marinade
2 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
½ tsp white peppercorns
1 bunch cilantro (including the roots and stems)
2 jalapeno peppers, stemmed
2 cloves garlic, trimmed and peeled
1 large shallot, trimmed and peeled
1 stalk lemongrass, trimmed and sliced
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
large pinch of kosher salt
1 Tbs fish sauce
3 Tbs peanut oil
The Game Hens
2 game hens, butterflied (see tip below)
1. In a small skillet over medium heat, toast the coriander seeds, cumin seeds, and white peppercorns until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. When the spices have cooled, grind them in a spice mill (or crush them with a mortar and pestle).
2. In the bowl of a food processor, combine the ground spices with the rest of the marinade ingredients. Puree until a paste forms. Rub the paste over the hens and let them marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for at least one hour and up to a full day.
3. Prepare the grill. Arrange the hens skin-side up and cook for 10 minutes before turning and cooking until done, about another 10 minutes.
TIPS
• Butterflying poultry means splitting the bird’s body into two pieces that remain attached but lie flat. If you don’t have a butcher to do this for you, don’t worry; it’s easy. Using poultry shears or a sharp knife, remove the bone that separates the two pieces of breast. Then pry the chest cavity open until you hear the spine crack. The bird should now lie flat on its exposed interior.
• If you don’t have whole spices, you can make do with ground ones. You can also substitute black peppercorns for white (which are milder), but use a little less.
• You can dramatically reduce the spiciness of this dish by discarding some or all of the jalapeno seeds.
• If you’re unfamiliar with lemongrass, don’t be intimidated. Simply remove the brittle, yellowish-greenish outer leaves to expose the dense white core. Then trim both ends so that you use only the bottom four inches or so.
• You can also make this dish in the oven. Place a roasting pan on the middle rack and preheat to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. (The roasting pan should be large enough to hold the hens in a single layer.) When the oven has reached the proper temperature, arrange the hens in the pan skin-side up and roast until done, about 25–30 minutes. For a crispy skin, finish with a few minutes under the broiler.
(serves two adults and two children)
The Marinade
2 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
½ tsp white peppercorns
1 bunch cilantro (including the roots and stems)
2 jalapeno peppers, stemmed
2 cloves garlic, trimmed and peeled
1 large shallot, trimmed and peeled
1 stalk lemongrass, trimmed and sliced
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
large pinch of kosher salt
1 Tbs fish sauce
3 Tbs peanut oil
The Game Hens
2 game hens, butterflied (see tip below)
1. In a small skillet over medium heat, toast the coriander seeds, cumin seeds, and white peppercorns until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. When the spices have cooled, grind them in a spice mill (or crush them with a mortar and pestle).
2. In the bowl of a food processor, combine the ground spices with the rest of the marinade ingredients. Puree until a paste forms. Rub the paste over the hens and let them marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for at least one hour and up to a full day.
3. Prepare the grill. Arrange the hens skin-side up and cook for 10 minutes before turning and cooking until done, about another 10 minutes.
TIPS
• Butterflying poultry means splitting the bird’s body into two pieces that remain attached but lie flat. If you don’t have a butcher to do this for you, don’t worry; it’s easy. Using poultry shears or a sharp knife, remove the bone that separates the two pieces of breast. Then pry the chest cavity open until you hear the spine crack. The bird should now lie flat on its exposed interior.
• If you don’t have whole spices, you can make do with ground ones. You can also substitute black peppercorns for white (which are milder), but use a little less.
• You can dramatically reduce the spiciness of this dish by discarding some or all of the jalapeno seeds.
• If you’re unfamiliar with lemongrass, don’t be intimidated. Simply remove the brittle, yellowish-greenish outer leaves to expose the dense white core. Then trim both ends so that you use only the bottom four inches or so.
• You can also make this dish in the oven. Place a roasting pan on the middle rack and preheat to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. (The roasting pan should be large enough to hold the hens in a single layer.) When the oven has reached the proper temperature, arrange the hens in the pan skin-side up and roast until done, about 25–30 minutes. For a crispy skin, finish with a few minutes under the broiler.
Friday, August 6, 2010
Macaroni and Cheese
Don't be afraid to make this casserole in advance because it tastes just as good reheated. Also feel free to experiment with other cheeses.
(serves a crowd)
1 medium onion
4 c milk
1 lb sharp cheddar cheese
half of a baguette
6 Tbs unsalted butter
1 tsp kosher salt
6 Tbs flour
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
1 lb macaroni elbows
2 oz Parmigiano-Reggiano (or other grating cheese)
2 Tbs olive oil
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Bring a large pot of salted pasta water to boil.
2. Finely dice the onion. Heat the milk in the microwave until warm. Grate the cheddar. Chop the baguette in a food processor to make about two cups of breadcrumbs.
3. In a large, heavy saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the onion and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until the onion softens, about 4-5 minutes. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until the flour darkens, about 1-2 minutes. Stir in the mustard and Worcestershire sauce.
4. Switching to a whisk and raising the heat to medium, add the milk in a slow stream, whisking constantly to form a white sauce. Let the sauce come to a bare simmer and cook, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes, adjusting the heat as necessary to maintain the simmer.
5. Meanwhile, cook the macaroni until al dente. Drain and transfer to a 9- by 13-inch Pyrex baking dish.
6. Add the grated cheddar to the white sauce, stirring until the cheese melts. Pour the sauce over the macaroni and toss to combine.
7. Grate the Parmigiano-Reggiano and combine it in a medium bowl with the breadcrumbs and olive oil. Season well with salt and freshly ground pepper. Sprinkle this topping over the macaroni.
8. Bake the casserole in the center of the oven until the topping turns golden, about 15 minutes. Let rest for at least 5 minutes before serving.
TIP
• If you like, you can add a dried herb such as thyme or rosemary to the breadcrumb topping.
(serves a crowd)
1 medium onion
4 c milk
1 lb sharp cheddar cheese
half of a baguette
6 Tbs unsalted butter
1 tsp kosher salt
6 Tbs flour
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
1 lb macaroni elbows
2 oz Parmigiano-Reggiano (or other grating cheese)
2 Tbs olive oil
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Bring a large pot of salted pasta water to boil.
2. Finely dice the onion. Heat the milk in the microwave until warm. Grate the cheddar. Chop the baguette in a food processor to make about two cups of breadcrumbs.
3. In a large, heavy saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the onion and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until the onion softens, about 4-5 minutes. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until the flour darkens, about 1-2 minutes. Stir in the mustard and Worcestershire sauce.
4. Switching to a whisk and raising the heat to medium, add the milk in a slow stream, whisking constantly to form a white sauce. Let the sauce come to a bare simmer and cook, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes, adjusting the heat as necessary to maintain the simmer.
5. Meanwhile, cook the macaroni until al dente. Drain and transfer to a 9- by 13-inch Pyrex baking dish.
6. Add the grated cheddar to the white sauce, stirring until the cheese melts. Pour the sauce over the macaroni and toss to combine.
7. Grate the Parmigiano-Reggiano and combine it in a medium bowl with the breadcrumbs and olive oil. Season well with salt and freshly ground pepper. Sprinkle this topping over the macaroni.
8. Bake the casserole in the center of the oven until the topping turns golden, about 15 minutes. Let rest for at least 5 minutes before serving.
TIP
• If you like, you can add a dried herb such as thyme or rosemary to the breadcrumb topping.
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Eggplant with Mint and Feta
If you don’t grow your own mint, you can make do with a single bunch from the supermarket. But if you do grow your own, use a lot!
(serves four as a main course or eight as a side dish)
2 cloves garlic
juice of 2 lemons
kosher salt
2 large shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
2 large Italian eggplant
olive oil
6-8 oz feta cheese
1 bunch fresh mint
1 tsp ground cumin
½ tsp cayenne pepper
1. Peel and grate the garlic. Combine in a small bowl with the lemon juice and a large pinch of salt. Add the shallots and stir to coat. Set aside, stirring occasionally to keep the shallots marinating.
2. Trim and slice the eggplant into rounds ¼–½ inch thick. Using a brush, “paint” each slice with olive oil (both sides). At the same time, sprinkle each slice with a little salt.
3. Grill the eggplant until tender, about three minutes per side. Remove and let cool.
4. Crumble the feta. Remove the mint leaves from the stems, roll into cylinders (several at a time), and slice into quarter–inch ribbons.
5. After removing and reserving the shallots, add the cumin, the cayenne and 2 tablespoons olive oil to the lemon juice. Whisk to form a vinaigrette.
6. Line a serving platter with a layer of grilled eggplant. Top with some shallots, some feta, and some mint. Repeat until you have used all of the ingredients to compose a pleasing stack. Drizzle with the vinaigrette and serve.
TIPS
• The easiest way to grate the garlic is with a Microplane rasp-style grater.
(serves four as a main course or eight as a side dish)
2 cloves garlic
juice of 2 lemons
kosher salt
2 large shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
2 large Italian eggplant
olive oil
6-8 oz feta cheese
1 bunch fresh mint
1 tsp ground cumin
½ tsp cayenne pepper
1. Peel and grate the garlic. Combine in a small bowl with the lemon juice and a large pinch of salt. Add the shallots and stir to coat. Set aside, stirring occasionally to keep the shallots marinating.
2. Trim and slice the eggplant into rounds ¼–½ inch thick. Using a brush, “paint” each slice with olive oil (both sides). At the same time, sprinkle each slice with a little salt.
3. Grill the eggplant until tender, about three minutes per side. Remove and let cool.
4. Crumble the feta. Remove the mint leaves from the stems, roll into cylinders (several at a time), and slice into quarter–inch ribbons.
5. After removing and reserving the shallots, add the cumin, the cayenne and 2 tablespoons olive oil to the lemon juice. Whisk to form a vinaigrette.
6. Line a serving platter with a layer of grilled eggplant. Top with some shallots, some feta, and some mint. Repeat until you have used all of the ingredients to compose a pleasing stack. Drizzle with the vinaigrette and serve.
TIPS
• The easiest way to grate the garlic is with a Microplane rasp-style grater.
Monday, August 2, 2010
Spaghetti Carbonara
The trick to making this dish properly is to keep the eggs creamy while still cooking them sufficiently. I find that deglazing the skillet with a little pasta waster tempers the heat just the right amount.
(serves two adults and two children)
½ lb. bacon
1 medium onion
2 oz. parmesan cheese (to make about 1 cup grated)
½ bunch fresh parsley
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 eggs
2 egg yolks
¼ cup heavy cream
1 lb. thick spaghetti
1. Bring a large pot of salted pasta water to a boil.
2. Dice the bacon and onion. Grate the cheese, chop the parsley, and combine. seasoning with salt and pepper. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, and cream.
3. In a heavy skillet large enough to hold the pasta, cook the bacon over medium heat until barely crisp, about 10–12 minutes .Remove and drain on paper towels. Pour off all but 1–2 tablespoons of the bacon fat, reserving the rest. Reduce the heat to medium-low and sauté the onions. If the skillet seems dry, add back more bacon fat.
4. Add the spaghetti to the boiling water and cook until al dente, about 8 minutes. After reserving some of the pasta water, drain the spaghetti.
5. Remove the onions from the heat. Using two or three tablespoons of the pasta water, deglaze the skillet, scraping the bottom to dissolve the stuck-on bits. Add the drained pasta and toss to combine.
6. Add the egg mixture and toss to coat the pasta. Add the bacon and the cheese mixture. Continue tossing until thoroughly combined.
TIPS
• Use good-quality bacon that’s not too fatty or salty. Otherwise, pour off most of the rendered fat before adding the onion.
• I keep bacon in the freezer, which means that I can use part of a package as I need it. Also, frozen bacon is easier to chop than rubbery refrigerated bacon. I cut off what I need while the bacon is still frozen and let the slices separate by themselves as they cook in the pan.
• There are so few ingredients in this dish that you can’t hide bad cheese. The best Parmesan is imported Parmigiano-Reggiano, which is pricey; but even at sixteen dollars a pound, two ounces sets you back just two dollars.
• Because of the danger of salmonella, the Food and Drug Administration recommends that egg yolks be cooked thoroughly until firm. Firmly cooked yolks, however, are antithetical to a good carbonara. If you’re concerned about salmonella, you can keep the flame on underneath the skillet as you add the eggs.
(serves two adults and two children)
½ lb. bacon
1 medium onion
2 oz. parmesan cheese (to make about 1 cup grated)
½ bunch fresh parsley
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 eggs
2 egg yolks
¼ cup heavy cream
1 lb. thick spaghetti
1. Bring a large pot of salted pasta water to a boil.
2. Dice the bacon and onion. Grate the cheese, chop the parsley, and combine. seasoning with salt and pepper. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, and cream.
3. In a heavy skillet large enough to hold the pasta, cook the bacon over medium heat until barely crisp, about 10–12 minutes .Remove and drain on paper towels. Pour off all but 1–2 tablespoons of the bacon fat, reserving the rest. Reduce the heat to medium-low and sauté the onions. If the skillet seems dry, add back more bacon fat.
4. Add the spaghetti to the boiling water and cook until al dente, about 8 minutes. After reserving some of the pasta water, drain the spaghetti.
5. Remove the onions from the heat. Using two or three tablespoons of the pasta water, deglaze the skillet, scraping the bottom to dissolve the stuck-on bits. Add the drained pasta and toss to combine.
6. Add the egg mixture and toss to coat the pasta. Add the bacon and the cheese mixture. Continue tossing until thoroughly combined.
TIPS
• Use good-quality bacon that’s not too fatty or salty. Otherwise, pour off most of the rendered fat before adding the onion.
• I keep bacon in the freezer, which means that I can use part of a package as I need it. Also, frozen bacon is easier to chop than rubbery refrigerated bacon. I cut off what I need while the bacon is still frozen and let the slices separate by themselves as they cook in the pan.
• There are so few ingredients in this dish that you can’t hide bad cheese. The best Parmesan is imported Parmigiano-Reggiano, which is pricey; but even at sixteen dollars a pound, two ounces sets you back just two dollars.
• Because of the danger of salmonella, the Food and Drug Administration recommends that egg yolks be cooked thoroughly until firm. Firmly cooked yolks, however, are antithetical to a good carbonara. If you’re concerned about salmonella, you can keep the flame on underneath the skillet as you add the eggs.
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