This is one of my family’s favorite easy dinners—a step up from boiling frozen tortellini when we’re feeling rushed or lazy. The recipe also works well as a side for roasted or grilled chicken.
(serves two adults and two children)
a large bunch of broccoli raab
1 lb dried penne
¼ c olive oil
1 tsp red pepper flakes
Parmesan or Romano cheese (for grating)
1. Bring a large pot of salted pasta water to a boil.
2. If you haven’t already done so, trim the ends of the broccoli raab (see tip below). Blanch the broccoli raab in the boiling pasta water for two minutes. Remove and drain.
3. Bring the pasta water back to a boil. Add the penne and cook until done. Drain.
4. Meanwhile, when the penne is nearly done, begin heating the oil and red pepper flakes in a large skillet over a medium flame. Chop the drained broccoli raab into pieces about an inch or so long and add them to the skillet. When the penne is cooked and drained, add it to the skillet and toss to combine. Serve with cheese for grating.
TIP
• The wire that holds the bunch of broccoli raab together in the supermarket promotes spoilage, so I remove it when I get home. Before I do, however, I trim the ends of the broccoli raab, because trimming is much easier when the bunch is still wrapped tightly.
Friday, January 22, 2010
Chocolate Bonbon Cake
My feeling is that, if you’re going to eat things that are bad for you, those things should taste really, really good. This cake tastes that good, and it’s fancy, too. Some restaurants call it a chocolate mousse cake because its lack of flour makes it seem more like a baked mousse thank a cake. My daughter, Abigail, calls it a chocolate bonbon cake because when she was just learning to read, she confuses bourbon with bonbon, and the name stuck.
12 oz high-quality semisweet chocolate
12 Tbs unsalted butter
6 eggs, separated
¾ c brown sugar
¼ c flour
4 Tbs bourbon
1 tsp vanilla extract
½ tsp kosher salt
confectioner’s sugar
1. Place an oven rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Unlock a nine-inch springform pan so that the bottom separates from the ring (the sides). Cover the bottom with extra-wide, heavy-duty aluminum foil so that there is an outside margin of several inches. Press the foil down to reveal the rim of the bottom but don’t wrap the foil under the bottom. Return the bottom to the ring and relock the pan. Place the pan on a second large piece of foil and fold both foil layers up so that they cover at least half the height of the ring. (This application of foil prevents seepage from the water bath in which the cake is baked.)
3. Butter the inside of the springform pan. Add a parchment-paper liner to the bottom and butter this as well. Set the prepared pan inside a larger roasting pan.
4. Melt the chocolate and the butter (see tip below). Stir to combine.
5. Using a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment (or a hand mixer), beat the egg yolks and brown sugar on medium until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes.
6. Reduce the mixer speed to low. Add the melted chocolate and butter and mix until just combined. Add the flour, and mix until just combined. Add the bourbon and vanilla extract and mix until just combined.
7. Transfer the batter to a mixing bowl. Clean and dry the stand mixer, then beat the egg whites and salt on high until the whites form soft peaks, about a minute.
8. After carefully folding the whipped egg whites into the batter, transfer the batter to the springform pan and place the springform pan/roasting pan assembly in the middle of the oven. Before closing the oven door, add enough hot tap water to the roasting pan so that the water covers half the thickness of the cake, about 1½ inches.
9. Bake until the center of the cake is set, about 50-55 minutes. Remove the springform pan from the water bath and let it cool on a rack. When the cake has cooled completely, unlock the ring and, using a suitably flat platter, invert the cake so that the top becomes the bottom. Peel off the parchment paper, and dust the top of the cake with confectioner’s sugar. Serve at room temperature.
TIPS
• The “proper” way to melt the chocolate and butter is in a double-boiler (which can be as simple as a metal bowl set inside a pot of simmering water). But I usually use the microwave, which works fine as long as you’re careful. If you leave the microwave on too long, either you’ll scorch the chocolate, ruining its taste, or the butter will “pop,” sending it all over the inside of your oven. I guard against these unpleasant outcomes by remove the mixtures and stirring it every 15-20 seconds. Whichever method you use, remember that you needn’t heat the chocolate until every last morsel is melted. Residual heat will take care of any graininess.
• For this cake, I like to use Maker’s Mark bourbon, but you can substitute another whiskey (Jack Daniels) or a liqueur (Grand Marnier, Cointreau, Fra Angelico).
• An easy way to cut this cake neatly is to use a long strand of dental floss. Cut wedges by pulling the floss down from the top. Remove it by pulling the floss through the cake horizontally.
• Because chocolate loses flavor as it gets colder, be sure to serve this cake at room temperature. (Think of the difference in taste between a cold chocolate bar and a piece of chocolate melting in your mouth.)
12 oz high-quality semisweet chocolate
12 Tbs unsalted butter
6 eggs, separated
¾ c brown sugar
¼ c flour
4 Tbs bourbon
1 tsp vanilla extract
½ tsp kosher salt
confectioner’s sugar
1. Place an oven rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Unlock a nine-inch springform pan so that the bottom separates from the ring (the sides). Cover the bottom with extra-wide, heavy-duty aluminum foil so that there is an outside margin of several inches. Press the foil down to reveal the rim of the bottom but don’t wrap the foil under the bottom. Return the bottom to the ring and relock the pan. Place the pan on a second large piece of foil and fold both foil layers up so that they cover at least half the height of the ring. (This application of foil prevents seepage from the water bath in which the cake is baked.)
3. Butter the inside of the springform pan. Add a parchment-paper liner to the bottom and butter this as well. Set the prepared pan inside a larger roasting pan.
4. Melt the chocolate and the butter (see tip below). Stir to combine.
5. Using a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment (or a hand mixer), beat the egg yolks and brown sugar on medium until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes.
6. Reduce the mixer speed to low. Add the melted chocolate and butter and mix until just combined. Add the flour, and mix until just combined. Add the bourbon and vanilla extract and mix until just combined.
7. Transfer the batter to a mixing bowl. Clean and dry the stand mixer, then beat the egg whites and salt on high until the whites form soft peaks, about a minute.
8. After carefully folding the whipped egg whites into the batter, transfer the batter to the springform pan and place the springform pan/roasting pan assembly in the middle of the oven. Before closing the oven door, add enough hot tap water to the roasting pan so that the water covers half the thickness of the cake, about 1½ inches.
9. Bake until the center of the cake is set, about 50-55 minutes. Remove the springform pan from the water bath and let it cool on a rack. When the cake has cooled completely, unlock the ring and, using a suitably flat platter, invert the cake so that the top becomes the bottom. Peel off the parchment paper, and dust the top of the cake with confectioner’s sugar. Serve at room temperature.
TIPS
• The “proper” way to melt the chocolate and butter is in a double-boiler (which can be as simple as a metal bowl set inside a pot of simmering water). But I usually use the microwave, which works fine as long as you’re careful. If you leave the microwave on too long, either you’ll scorch the chocolate, ruining its taste, or the butter will “pop,” sending it all over the inside of your oven. I guard against these unpleasant outcomes by remove the mixtures and stirring it every 15-20 seconds. Whichever method you use, remember that you needn’t heat the chocolate until every last morsel is melted. Residual heat will take care of any graininess.
• For this cake, I like to use Maker’s Mark bourbon, but you can substitute another whiskey (Jack Daniels) or a liqueur (Grand Marnier, Cointreau, Fra Angelico).
• An easy way to cut this cake neatly is to use a long strand of dental floss. Cut wedges by pulling the floss down from the top. Remove it by pulling the floss through the cake horizontally.
• Because chocolate loses flavor as it gets colder, be sure to serve this cake at room temperature. (Think of the difference in taste between a cold chocolate bar and a piece of chocolate melting in your mouth.)
Wednesday, January 20, 2010
English Currant Scones
Unlike the doughy lumps sold as “scones” in America, this recipe produce traditional English scones—a sweet, tender teatime (or breakfast) treat.
(yields twelve scones)
⅔ c heavy cream
1 large egg
¼ c sugar
2½ c flour
1 Tbs baking powder
¼ tsp baking soda
½ tsp kosher salt
1 stick unsalted butter, chilled
¾ c dried currants
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the heavy cream, egg, and sugar.
3. Place the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a sharp blade. Pulse to combine.
4. Cut the butter into 16 pieces and add to the dry ingredients. Pulse until the dough reaches the consistency of coarse meal. Add the cream mixture and pulse again until the dough forms a ball.
5. Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and flatten into a disk. Sprinkle with the currants and knead until the currants are evenly distributed.
6. Shape the dough again into a disk about ¾-inch thick. Using a round cookie cutter, form individual scones. Combine and reshape the dough as necessary to form more scones.
7. Set the scones on a baking sheet lined with a silicon mat or parchment paper. Bake until golden brown, about 15-20 minutes. Serve with butter and jam.
TIPS
• For a Sunday brunch, we usually make two batches of these scones—one with currants (for the adults) and one with chocolate chips (for the kids).
• Often before baking the scones, I’ll brush them with a little egg, melted butter, or cream and then sprinkle them with turbinado sugar. Similar in taste and appearance to brown sugar, turbinado sugar has large crystals that stick nicely to the wetted dough.
• If you can't get dried currants, small raisins or another small dried fruit (such as cranberries or blueberries) will also work.
• To form the final scone or two, I just gather up the remaining dough and press it into the cookie cutter.
• An excellent accompaniment to these scones (in place of English clotted cream, which is hard to find in this country) is day-old whipped cream. The night before you make the scones, whip some cream and let it “fall” in the refrigerator overnight. The result is a tasty, thickened spread.
(yields twelve scones)
⅔ c heavy cream
1 large egg
¼ c sugar
2½ c flour
1 Tbs baking powder
¼ tsp baking soda
½ tsp kosher salt
1 stick unsalted butter, chilled
¾ c dried currants
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the heavy cream, egg, and sugar.
3. Place the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a sharp blade. Pulse to combine.
4. Cut the butter into 16 pieces and add to the dry ingredients. Pulse until the dough reaches the consistency of coarse meal. Add the cream mixture and pulse again until the dough forms a ball.
5. Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and flatten into a disk. Sprinkle with the currants and knead until the currants are evenly distributed.
6. Shape the dough again into a disk about ¾-inch thick. Using a round cookie cutter, form individual scones. Combine and reshape the dough as necessary to form more scones.
7. Set the scones on a baking sheet lined with a silicon mat or parchment paper. Bake until golden brown, about 15-20 minutes. Serve with butter and jam.
TIPS
• For a Sunday brunch, we usually make two batches of these scones—one with currants (for the adults) and one with chocolate chips (for the kids).
• Often before baking the scones, I’ll brush them with a little egg, melted butter, or cream and then sprinkle them with turbinado sugar. Similar in taste and appearance to brown sugar, turbinado sugar has large crystals that stick nicely to the wetted dough.
• If you can't get dried currants, small raisins or another small dried fruit (such as cranberries or blueberries) will also work.
• To form the final scone or two, I just gather up the remaining dough and press it into the cookie cutter.
• An excellent accompaniment to these scones (in place of English clotted cream, which is hard to find in this country) is day-old whipped cream. The night before you make the scones, whip some cream and let it “fall” in the refrigerator overnight. The result is a tasty, thickened spread.
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Pasta e Fagioli
This hearty pasta-and-bean soup makes a fine winter meal with some oven-warmed, crusty bread and a nice soft, sharp cheese like Camembert.
(serves two parents and two children)
½ lb ditalini (or other small pasta)
3 cloves garlic
1 small onion
¼ c olive oil
½ tsp (or more) red pepper flakes
1 tsp (or more) freshly ground black pepper
2 fifteen-oz cans white beans (such as Great Northern or cannellini)
4 c chicken stock
juice of a lemon
handful of fresh parsley, chopped
kosher salt
Parmesan or Romano cheese (for grating)
1. Boil salted water in a pot large enough to hold the pasta. Cook the pasta until just done (al dente). Rinse with cold water and drain.
2. Meanwhile, chop the garlic and onion medium-fine.
3. In a large stockpot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat until it begins to shimmer. Add the garlic, the red pepper flakes, and the black pepper. Saute for 30 seconds, then add the onion and continue sauteeing until the onion softens and becomes translucent, about 3 minutes.
4. Add the beans (including their liquid) and the chicken stock. Let the soup come to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5-10 minutes.
5. Just before serving, stir in the pasta, lemon juice, and the parsley. Season with salt to taste. Serve with cheese for grating on top.
TIP
• When using pasta in soups, I always cook the pasta separately. Otherwise, it soaks up too much stock, resulting in a stew rather than a soup. If there are leftovers, I like to add additional stock to the pot to compensate for the liquid absorbed by the pasta.
(serves two parents and two children)
½ lb ditalini (or other small pasta)
3 cloves garlic
1 small onion
¼ c olive oil
½ tsp (or more) red pepper flakes
1 tsp (or more) freshly ground black pepper
2 fifteen-oz cans white beans (such as Great Northern or cannellini)
4 c chicken stock
juice of a lemon
handful of fresh parsley, chopped
kosher salt
Parmesan or Romano cheese (for grating)
1. Boil salted water in a pot large enough to hold the pasta. Cook the pasta until just done (al dente). Rinse with cold water and drain.
2. Meanwhile, chop the garlic and onion medium-fine.
3. In a large stockpot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat until it begins to shimmer. Add the garlic, the red pepper flakes, and the black pepper. Saute for 30 seconds, then add the onion and continue sauteeing until the onion softens and becomes translucent, about 3 minutes.
4. Add the beans (including their liquid) and the chicken stock. Let the soup come to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5-10 minutes.
5. Just before serving, stir in the pasta, lemon juice, and the parsley. Season with salt to taste. Serve with cheese for grating on top.
TIP
• When using pasta in soups, I always cook the pasta separately. Otherwise, it soaks up too much stock, resulting in a stew rather than a soup. If there are leftovers, I like to add additional stock to the pot to compensate for the liquid absorbed by the pasta.
Friday, January 15, 2010
Pork Chops with Mustard Sauce
This recipe involves sear-roasting. First you sear the pork on the stovetop, then you finish it off in the oven. Be sure to use a skillet that's oven safe (for example, no rubber handles).
(serves two adults and two children)
3 thick-cut boneless pork chops (at least an inch thick)
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
olive oil
½ c dry white wine
½ c chicken stock
¾ c heavy cream
¼ c Dijon mustard
1. Preheat the oven to 500 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Season both sides of the pork chops with salt and pepper.
3. Heat a large cast-iron skillet (or other heavy, ovenproof skillet) over a high flame, adding a film of olive oil. When the oil is very hot, sear the chops for 3 minutes, then turn them with tongs and place the skillet in the hot oven. Roast until the chops are cooked through but not dry, about 10 minutes.
4. Remove the skillet from the oven. Transfer the chops to a serving dish and tent them with aluminum foil to keep warm. Pour off any excess fat from the skillet and return it to the stovetop over medium-high heat.
5. Add the wine to deglaze the skillet. (Use a wooden spoon to scrape the bottom of the skillet so that the wine dissolves the flavorful browned bits more easily). Reduce the wine by half, about 2-3 minutes. Add the chicken stock, heavy cream, and mustard. Boil, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with more salt and pepper. Drizzle over the pork chops and serve.
TIP
• Because the skillet gets quite hot in the oven, you should never touch it with your bare hand. I always keep an oven mitt on the handle, just in case I reach for it without thinking.
(serves two adults and two children)
3 thick-cut boneless pork chops (at least an inch thick)
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
olive oil
½ c dry white wine
½ c chicken stock
¾ c heavy cream
¼ c Dijon mustard
1. Preheat the oven to 500 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Season both sides of the pork chops with salt and pepper.
3. Heat a large cast-iron skillet (or other heavy, ovenproof skillet) over a high flame, adding a film of olive oil. When the oil is very hot, sear the chops for 3 minutes, then turn them with tongs and place the skillet in the hot oven. Roast until the chops are cooked through but not dry, about 10 minutes.
4. Remove the skillet from the oven. Transfer the chops to a serving dish and tent them with aluminum foil to keep warm. Pour off any excess fat from the skillet and return it to the stovetop over medium-high heat.
5. Add the wine to deglaze the skillet. (Use a wooden spoon to scrape the bottom of the skillet so that the wine dissolves the flavorful browned bits more easily). Reduce the wine by half, about 2-3 minutes. Add the chicken stock, heavy cream, and mustard. Boil, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with more salt and pepper. Drizzle over the pork chops and serve.
TIP
• Because the skillet gets quite hot in the oven, you should never touch it with your bare hand. I always keep an oven mitt on the handle, just in case I reach for it without thinking.
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
Braised Short Ribs
My friend Mark Hoff made these short ribs for me during one of my family’s semiannual visits to his home in Providence. My daughter, Abigail, liked them so much she insisted that I learn how to make them. This incredibly rich dish goes especially well with fresh fettuccini, which Abigail likes to make, but a good dried penne will do nicely.
(serves a crowd)
olive oil
2 oz pancetta, finely diced
5 lb beef short ribs
3 medium onions, finely diced
1 large carrot, finely diced
1 stalk celery, finely diced
28-oz can whole or diced tomatoes
12-oz can tomato paste
several sprigs of fresh thyme, to taste
kosher salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
beef stock, as necessary (about 4 c)
red wine, as necessary (about 1 bottle)
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
2. In a Dutch oven filmed with olive oil, render the pancetta over medium-low heat, about 8-10 minutes. After moving the pancetta to the outside of the pan and raising the heat to medium-high, sear the short ribs for 3-4 minutes per side. Do this in as many batches as necessary so that the meat isn’t crowded. Remove the ribs and set them aside.
3. Reduce the flame to medium-low. Add more olive oil, if necessary, and sauté the mirepoix (onion, carrot, and celery) until wilted but not browned, about 10-12 minutes.
4. Place the meat on top of the mirepoix. Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, thyme, salt, and pepper. Then add equal parts beef stock and wine until the level of the liquid approaches but doesn’t completely cover the top of the meat.
5. Braise the ribs uncovered in the oven for at least three and up to five hours, adding liquid as necessary to keep up the level.
TIPS
• When the ribs are tender, the bones and spent thyme sprigs can be removed easily with tongs.
(serves a crowd)
olive oil
2 oz pancetta, finely diced
5 lb beef short ribs
3 medium onions, finely diced
1 large carrot, finely diced
1 stalk celery, finely diced
28-oz can whole or diced tomatoes
12-oz can tomato paste
several sprigs of fresh thyme, to taste
kosher salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
beef stock, as necessary (about 4 c)
red wine, as necessary (about 1 bottle)
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
2. In a Dutch oven filmed with olive oil, render the pancetta over medium-low heat, about 8-10 minutes. After moving the pancetta to the outside of the pan and raising the heat to medium-high, sear the short ribs for 3-4 minutes per side. Do this in as many batches as necessary so that the meat isn’t crowded. Remove the ribs and set them aside.
3. Reduce the flame to medium-low. Add more olive oil, if necessary, and sauté the mirepoix (onion, carrot, and celery) until wilted but not browned, about 10-12 minutes.
4. Place the meat on top of the mirepoix. Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, thyme, salt, and pepper. Then add equal parts beef stock and wine until the level of the liquid approaches but doesn’t completely cover the top of the meat.
5. Braise the ribs uncovered in the oven for at least three and up to five hours, adding liquid as necessary to keep up the level.
TIPS
• When the ribs are tender, the bones and spent thyme sprigs can be removed easily with tongs.
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
Rosemary Focaccia
The most important ingredient in this recipe is time. There’s not much work involved, but you’ve got to allow several hours for the dough to rise. If you’re tempted to hasten the process, remember that the more time you allow, the better the focaccia will be. After all, you’re not making matzoh here.
2 c warm water
2 Tbs sugar
2 pkg active dry yeast (not rapid-rise)
5 c unbleached flour
2 tsp kosher salt
4 sprigs fresh rosemary, stripped and minced
¾ c good olive oil
1–2 Tbs sea salt
1. Pour the water into the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the dough hook. Stir in the sugar and sprinkle the yeast on top. Let the yeast proof for 5 minutes. (It should foam slightly; if it doesn’t, the yeast is dead, and you should start over with fresh yeast.)
2. Add the flour, salt, half of the rosemary, and ¼ cup of the olive oil. Mix very slowly until the dough forms a ball, about 30 seconds. Increase the speed to medium slow and knead for 3 minutes. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes, then knead again for another 3 minutes.
3. Oil a mixing bowl large enough to handle twice the volume of the dough, pooling about a tablespoon of oil in the bottom. Transfer the dough to the bowl and roll it in the oil so that the dough ball becomes coated. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature until the dough doubles in volume, about an hour.
4. Line a rimmed cookie sheet (also known as a jelly roll pan) with parchment paper and oil the paper well using another tablespoon or two of the oil. Transfer the dough from the bowl to the pan and drizzle it generously with more oil, about another 2 tablespoons.
5. Spread your fingers and point them downward as though you were preparing to play a piano. Use the tips of your fingers to dimple the dough, starting in the center and pressing down and slightly outward as you go. Your goal is to spread the dough to the edges of the pan. In all likelihood, the dough will begin to resist before you get there. Stop at this point, cover the dough with plastic wrap, and let it rest for 20 minutes. Then drizzle on more olive oil and dimple again until you reach the pan’s edges. Cover again with plastic wrap and let the dough rise at room temperature for another 2-3 hours, or at least until the dough’s volume has increased by half.
5. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.
6. Just before baking, remove the plastic wrap and sprinkle the dough with the remaining rosemary and the sea salt.
7. Bake in the middle of the oven, rotating the pan front to back after 10 minutes. Begin checking the bread after another 7-8 minutes. It’s done when it turns golden brown. Remove the bread from the pan and let it cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes before slicing. Serve with olive oil for dipping.
TIPS
• If you don’t have a stand mixer, you can make do with a stainless steel mixing bowl and a large spoon. Just keep dipping the spoon in warm water so that the dough doesn’t stick to it. Letting the dough rest occasionally also helps make the kneading easier.
• Coating the dough well with oil and covering it with plastic wrap prevents a nasty dry crust from forming during the rising.
• If you get a late start, you can keep the first rise (in the bowl) to an hour and the second rise (in the pan) to whatever time remains. But shortcutting the rise will yield a much denser bread.
• You can’t use too much oil when making focaccia because it’s all absorbed during the baking, imparting a wonderful flavor as long as you use a decent oil.
• I specify sea salt for the topping because the crystals are large and thus make a bright splash on your tongue. Using ordinary table salt would simply make the bread taste generally saltier.
2 c warm water
2 Tbs sugar
2 pkg active dry yeast (not rapid-rise)
5 c unbleached flour
2 tsp kosher salt
4 sprigs fresh rosemary, stripped and minced
¾ c good olive oil
1–2 Tbs sea salt
1. Pour the water into the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the dough hook. Stir in the sugar and sprinkle the yeast on top. Let the yeast proof for 5 minutes. (It should foam slightly; if it doesn’t, the yeast is dead, and you should start over with fresh yeast.)
2. Add the flour, salt, half of the rosemary, and ¼ cup of the olive oil. Mix very slowly until the dough forms a ball, about 30 seconds. Increase the speed to medium slow and knead for 3 minutes. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes, then knead again for another 3 minutes.
3. Oil a mixing bowl large enough to handle twice the volume of the dough, pooling about a tablespoon of oil in the bottom. Transfer the dough to the bowl and roll it in the oil so that the dough ball becomes coated. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature until the dough doubles in volume, about an hour.
4. Line a rimmed cookie sheet (also known as a jelly roll pan) with parchment paper and oil the paper well using another tablespoon or two of the oil. Transfer the dough from the bowl to the pan and drizzle it generously with more oil, about another 2 tablespoons.
5. Spread your fingers and point them downward as though you were preparing to play a piano. Use the tips of your fingers to dimple the dough, starting in the center and pressing down and slightly outward as you go. Your goal is to spread the dough to the edges of the pan. In all likelihood, the dough will begin to resist before you get there. Stop at this point, cover the dough with plastic wrap, and let it rest for 20 minutes. Then drizzle on more olive oil and dimple again until you reach the pan’s edges. Cover again with plastic wrap and let the dough rise at room temperature for another 2-3 hours, or at least until the dough’s volume has increased by half.
5. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.
6. Just before baking, remove the plastic wrap and sprinkle the dough with the remaining rosemary and the sea salt.
7. Bake in the middle of the oven, rotating the pan front to back after 10 minutes. Begin checking the bread after another 7-8 minutes. It’s done when it turns golden brown. Remove the bread from the pan and let it cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes before slicing. Serve with olive oil for dipping.
TIPS
• If you don’t have a stand mixer, you can make do with a stainless steel mixing bowl and a large spoon. Just keep dipping the spoon in warm water so that the dough doesn’t stick to it. Letting the dough rest occasionally also helps make the kneading easier.
• Coating the dough well with oil and covering it with plastic wrap prevents a nasty dry crust from forming during the rising.
• If you get a late start, you can keep the first rise (in the bowl) to an hour and the second rise (in the pan) to whatever time remains. But shortcutting the rise will yield a much denser bread.
• You can’t use too much oil when making focaccia because it’s all absorbed during the baking, imparting a wonderful flavor as long as you use a decent oil.
• I specify sea salt for the topping because the crystals are large and thus make a bright splash on your tongue. Using ordinary table salt would simply make the bread taste generally saltier.
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