If you’ve got only one waffle iron, buy another. Although this recipe allows you to stockpile waffles in the oven, you really need to have two irons going at the same time if you want to feed a family.
(makes about 10 waffles)
1½ c flour
½ c cornstarch
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
2 Tbs sugar
1 tsp kosher salt
1½ c milk
½ c plain yogurt
¼ c canola oil
2 eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract
1. Preheat the waffle irons. Preheat the oven to 225 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, cornstarch, baking powder, baking soda, sugar, and salt.
3. In another bowl, whisk together the milk, yogurt, canola oil, eggs, and vanilla extract.
4. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients. Mix gently with a spatula until all the dry ingredients have been moistened and no pockets of flour remain. Do not overmix.
5. Bake the batter in waffle irons. When the waffles are done, transfer them to the preheated oven and let them crisp, unstacked, for a few minutes before serving.
TIPS
• Most waffle recipes (as most pancake recipes) call for buttermilk, but I don’t generally keep buttermilk around, and I’m not going out for some early on a Sunday morning. That’s why this recipe uses yogurt, which I do keep on hand. If you want to use buttermilk, the proper amounts are 1½ cups buttermilk and ½ cup milk.
• The use of cornstarch makes these waffles nicely crispy. If you don’t have enough, substitute flour.
• Don’t be afraid to add chopped nuts to your waffles. Both walnuts and pecans work well. You can add them to the batter, but my son prefers his waffles nutless. So what I do is put a ladleful of batter into the waffle iron, sprinkle some nuts on top, and cover the nuts with some more batter. This way, those who want nuts can have, and those who don’t need not.
Monday, February 8, 2010
Oatmeal Cookies
We hosted a skating party for our kids and some of their friends this weekend. About four-thirty, we realized that we’d forgotten about dessert. By five, these cookies were ready. They’re always a big hit—with grownups, too.
(makes 24-30 cookies)
1 c nuts (such as pecans or walnuts)
1 c dried fruit (such as raisins or sour cherries)
1½ c old-fashioned oats
1 c bittersweet chocolate chips
1 c flour
¾ tsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
½ tsp kosher salt
12 Tbs unsalted butter, softened
1½ c dark brown sugar
1 egg
1 tsp vanilla extract
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Line two baking sheets with silicon mats or parchment paper.
2. Toast the nuts. Let them cool, then chop coarsely. Chop the fruit coarsely.
3. In a mixing bowl, combine the nuts and fruit with the oats and chocolate chips. In a second bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
4. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar at medium speed until the sugar dissolves, about 1 minute. Reduce the speed to low, add the egg and vanilla. Beat until fully combined, about another 30 seconds.
5. With the mixer still running, gradually add the flour mixture and then the oats mixture. Mix until just combined. Using a spatula, scrape down the sides of the bowl, incorporating any leftover dry ingredients into the batter.
6. Pinch off a golf ball-sized piece of batter and roll it in the palms of your hands to form a tight ball. Flatten slightly and place on a baking sheet. Continue until there is no batter left.
7. Bake until the edge of the cookies have set but the centers are still soft, about 12-15 minutes. Let the cookies cool a little on the baking sheets before transferring them to a rack.
TIPS
• If you don’t have a stand mixer, a hand mixer and large mixing bowl will do.
• Be careful not to overbake these cookies, which should be a little chewy.
(makes 24-30 cookies)
1 c nuts (such as pecans or walnuts)
1 c dried fruit (such as raisins or sour cherries)
1½ c old-fashioned oats
1 c bittersweet chocolate chips
1 c flour
¾ tsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
½ tsp kosher salt
12 Tbs unsalted butter, softened
1½ c dark brown sugar
1 egg
1 tsp vanilla extract
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Line two baking sheets with silicon mats or parchment paper.
2. Toast the nuts. Let them cool, then chop coarsely. Chop the fruit coarsely.
3. In a mixing bowl, combine the nuts and fruit with the oats and chocolate chips. In a second bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
4. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar at medium speed until the sugar dissolves, about 1 minute. Reduce the speed to low, add the egg and vanilla. Beat until fully combined, about another 30 seconds.
5. With the mixer still running, gradually add the flour mixture and then the oats mixture. Mix until just combined. Using a spatula, scrape down the sides of the bowl, incorporating any leftover dry ingredients into the batter.
6. Pinch off a golf ball-sized piece of batter and roll it in the palms of your hands to form a tight ball. Flatten slightly and place on a baking sheet. Continue until there is no batter left.
7. Bake until the edge of the cookies have set but the centers are still soft, about 12-15 minutes. Let the cookies cool a little on the baking sheets before transferring them to a rack.
TIPS
• If you don’t have a stand mixer, a hand mixer and large mixing bowl will do.
• Be careful not to overbake these cookies, which should be a little chewy.
Friday, February 5, 2010
Chicken with Cashew Nuts
No doubt because of the high price of cashews, most Chinese restaurants drown this dish in celery. The only fix I could find was to learn how to make it myself.
(serves two parents and two children)
The Chicken
2 boneless chicken breasts (about 1 lb)
1 egg white
1 Tbs cornstarch
kosher salt
The Sauce
3 Tbs hoisin sauce
3 Tbs rice wine (or dry sherry)
The Rest
3 cloves garlic
1 red bell pepper
3 scallions
6 oz cashews
3 Tbs peanut oil
2 tsp sesame oil
1. Cut the chicken into bite-sized pieces. Place in a bowl and add the egg white, cornstarch, and a large pinch of salt. Mix thoroughly so that the chicken becomes well coated. Set aside.
2. In a small bowl, combine the hoisin sauce and rice wine. Set aside.
3. Peel and coarsely chop the garlic. Julienne the red pepper. Trim the scallions and cut into one-inch lengths (both white and green parts).
4. Heat a wok (or a heavy skillet) over a high flame. Dry-fry the cashews until toasted, about 1 minute. Stir often to avoid scorching. Remove and set aside.
5. Add 2 tablespoons peanut oil to the wok. When the oil just begins to smoke, add the garlic and stir-fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the chicken and red pepper, stir-frying until the chicken is nearly cooked through, about 2 minutes. Remove and set aside.
6. Add the remaining tablespoon of peanut oil to the wok. Wait for the oil to heat, then drop the sauce into it. Stir. After the sauce has thickened a little (about 30 seconds), return the chicken and red pepper to the wok. Stir to combine.
7. Add the cashews, scallions, and sesame oil. Continue to cook until the scallions wilt slightly, about another minute. Serve over rice.
TIPS
• In Chinese cooking, the technique of coating meat with cornstarch (usually as a prelude to stir-frying) is called velveting. I find that the easiest way to do this is to mix the ingredients with my fingers. It’s a gooey delight.
• When I first began making this dish, I simply added the sauce at the end. Then my friend Michael Chesloff, an expert on Chinese regional cooking, told me that the proper way to "build" the sauce was to use a method called gong bao, which I have since adopted. The term refers to the way the hoisin sauce “explodes” when added to the hot oil.
• If you like your food a little spicy, this dish benefits from the addition of a few dried red chile peppers. Add them before the garlic to flavor the oil. Remove after they blacken, about 1 minute.
(serves two parents and two children)
The Chicken
2 boneless chicken breasts (about 1 lb)
1 egg white
1 Tbs cornstarch
kosher salt
The Sauce
3 Tbs hoisin sauce
3 Tbs rice wine (or dry sherry)
The Rest
3 cloves garlic
1 red bell pepper
3 scallions
6 oz cashews
3 Tbs peanut oil
2 tsp sesame oil
1. Cut the chicken into bite-sized pieces. Place in a bowl and add the egg white, cornstarch, and a large pinch of salt. Mix thoroughly so that the chicken becomes well coated. Set aside.
2. In a small bowl, combine the hoisin sauce and rice wine. Set aside.
3. Peel and coarsely chop the garlic. Julienne the red pepper. Trim the scallions and cut into one-inch lengths (both white and green parts).
4. Heat a wok (or a heavy skillet) over a high flame. Dry-fry the cashews until toasted, about 1 minute. Stir often to avoid scorching. Remove and set aside.
5. Add 2 tablespoons peanut oil to the wok. When the oil just begins to smoke, add the garlic and stir-fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the chicken and red pepper, stir-frying until the chicken is nearly cooked through, about 2 minutes. Remove and set aside.
6. Add the remaining tablespoon of peanut oil to the wok. Wait for the oil to heat, then drop the sauce into it. Stir. After the sauce has thickened a little (about 30 seconds), return the chicken and red pepper to the wok. Stir to combine.
7. Add the cashews, scallions, and sesame oil. Continue to cook until the scallions wilt slightly, about another minute. Serve over rice.
TIPS
• In Chinese cooking, the technique of coating meat with cornstarch (usually as a prelude to stir-frying) is called velveting. I find that the easiest way to do this is to mix the ingredients with my fingers. It’s a gooey delight.
• When I first began making this dish, I simply added the sauce at the end. Then my friend Michael Chesloff, an expert on Chinese regional cooking, told me that the proper way to "build" the sauce was to use a method called gong bao, which I have since adopted. The term refers to the way the hoisin sauce “explodes” when added to the hot oil.
• If you like your food a little spicy, this dish benefits from the addition of a few dried red chile peppers. Add them before the garlic to flavor the oil. Remove after they blacken, about 1 minute.
Monday, February 1, 2010
Thai Green Chicken Curry
The hardest thing about cooking Thai food at home is getting the right ingredients. Although I can usually find lemongrass at a local specialty store, there’s no grocery within an hour of my home that carries galangal (Asian ginger) or kaffir lime leaves. Fortunately, many supermarkets do carry Thai Kitchen green curry paste, a handy product that blends all of the hard-to-get ingredients together so you don’t have to. It even keeps well in the refrigerator.
(serves two adults and two children)
1 lb boneless chicken thighs
2 c snap peas
1 large red bell pepper
2 large shallots
1 bunch basil
1 Tbs peanut oil
3 Tbs green curry paste
1 14-oz can coconut milk
1 Tbs brown sugar
juice of a lime
2 Tbs fish sauce
1. Cut the chicken into bite-sized pieces about an inch or so long.
2. Trim the peas, removing the strings (if necessary) and cutting the larger ones in half on the diagonal. Slice the red pepper into thin two-inch strips. Peel and slice the shallots thinly. Strip the basil leaves and slice into strips or tear into pieces.
3. In a work (or a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan), heat the peanut oil over a medium-high flame until very hot. Add the curry pate and stir-fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
4. Remove the wok from the heat. Add the chicken, snap peas, red pepper, shallots, coconut milk, brown sugar, and one cup of water. Stir to combine.
5. Return the wok to the heat. Bring the curry to a simmer, Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and cook until the chicken is done, about 8-10 minutes. Stir in the basil, lime juice, and fish sauce. Let rest off the heat for 5 minutes. Serve over rice.
TIP
• The only difference between green chicken curry and red chicken curry is the curry paste. Red curry paste is a little spicier, however, so you might want to use a little less.
(serves two adults and two children)
1 lb boneless chicken thighs
2 c snap peas
1 large red bell pepper
2 large shallots
1 bunch basil
1 Tbs peanut oil
3 Tbs green curry paste
1 14-oz can coconut milk
1 Tbs brown sugar
juice of a lime
2 Tbs fish sauce
1. Cut the chicken into bite-sized pieces about an inch or so long.
2. Trim the peas, removing the strings (if necessary) and cutting the larger ones in half on the diagonal. Slice the red pepper into thin two-inch strips. Peel and slice the shallots thinly. Strip the basil leaves and slice into strips or tear into pieces.
3. In a work (or a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan), heat the peanut oil over a medium-high flame until very hot. Add the curry pate and stir-fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
4. Remove the wok from the heat. Add the chicken, snap peas, red pepper, shallots, coconut milk, brown sugar, and one cup of water. Stir to combine.
5. Return the wok to the heat. Bring the curry to a simmer, Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and cook until the chicken is done, about 8-10 minutes. Stir in the basil, lime juice, and fish sauce. Let rest off the heat for 5 minutes. Serve over rice.
TIP
• The only difference between green chicken curry and red chicken curry is the curry paste. Red curry paste is a little spicier, however, so you might want to use a little less.
Friday, January 29, 2010
Sear-Roasted Salmon with Lemon and Onions
This recipe—developed by my wife, Julia—minimizes the fishiness associated with some farmed salmon. Like many great inventions, it was born of a mishap (vulcanized rubber also comes to mind). One day, Julia pan-seared a salmon filet, only to discover after she had wiped the skillet clean that the fish wasn’t cooked enough. Because the oven was already on, she put the fish back in the skillet and roasted it for a few more minutes. The result was a dish with a noticeably cleaner taste.
(serves two adults and two children)
1½ lb salmon filet
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 large lemon
1 large onion
olive oil
1. Preheat the oven to 500 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Wash and dry the salmon. Sprinkle the flesh side with salt and pepper.
3. Wash the lemon and slice it thinly, discarding the pulpless ends. Peel the onion and slice it into rings (or half-rings) that are approximately the same thickness as the lemon slices.
4. Lightly coat a large nonstick ovenproof skillet with olive oil and heat it over a high flame until very hot. Place the salmon in the skillet flesh-side down and sear for 3 minutes.
5. Remove the salmon to a plate lined with paper towels. Meanwhile, use another paper towel to wipe the rendered fat from the skillet. Add a little more olive oil, about a tablespoon. Return the skillet to the high flame.
6. Add the onion slices and sauté for a minute or two, until they begin to wilt. Add the lemon slices and continue to sauté for another minute.
7. Pushing the lemon and onion slices to the side, return the salmon to the skillet, skin—side down. Transfer the skillet to the oven.
8. Roast until the salmon is done and the lemon and onion slices have caramelized, about 10-15 minutes. Serve the salmon topped with the lemon and onion slices.
TIPS
• Sweet onions, such as Vidalias, work especially well in this dish.
• Eat the lemon slices, rind and all; they’re fabulous.
• If your salmon filet is on the thin side, it may finish roasting before the lemon and onion slices are properly caramelized. If so, remove the salmon to a bed of paper towels while the onion and lemon slices finish in the oven.
• To promote even caramelization, I shake the skillet once or twice during the roasting.
• Remember that the skillet handle will be very hot after 15 minutes in the oven. Use two mitts to remove it from the oven and leave one mitt on the handle in case you reach for the skillet without thinking.
(serves two adults and two children)
1½ lb salmon filet
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 large lemon
1 large onion
olive oil
1. Preheat the oven to 500 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Wash and dry the salmon. Sprinkle the flesh side with salt and pepper.
3. Wash the lemon and slice it thinly, discarding the pulpless ends. Peel the onion and slice it into rings (or half-rings) that are approximately the same thickness as the lemon slices.
4. Lightly coat a large nonstick ovenproof skillet with olive oil and heat it over a high flame until very hot. Place the salmon in the skillet flesh-side down and sear for 3 minutes.
5. Remove the salmon to a plate lined with paper towels. Meanwhile, use another paper towel to wipe the rendered fat from the skillet. Add a little more olive oil, about a tablespoon. Return the skillet to the high flame.
6. Add the onion slices and sauté for a minute or two, until they begin to wilt. Add the lemon slices and continue to sauté for another minute.
7. Pushing the lemon and onion slices to the side, return the salmon to the skillet, skin—side down. Transfer the skillet to the oven.
8. Roast until the salmon is done and the lemon and onion slices have caramelized, about 10-15 minutes. Serve the salmon topped with the lemon and onion slices.
TIPS
• Sweet onions, such as Vidalias, work especially well in this dish.
• Eat the lemon slices, rind and all; they’re fabulous.
• If your salmon filet is on the thin side, it may finish roasting before the lemon and onion slices are properly caramelized. If so, remove the salmon to a bed of paper towels while the onion and lemon slices finish in the oven.
• To promote even caramelization, I shake the skillet once or twice during the roasting.
• Remember that the skillet handle will be very hot after 15 minutes in the oven. Use two mitts to remove it from the oven and leave one mitt on the handle in case you reach for the skillet without thinking.
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Buttermilk Pancakes
This recipe delivers pancakes on the thick side, which is how I like them. The most important thing to remember is not to overmix the batter. As my daughter, Abigail, demonstrated in a science fair project last year, overmixing the batter will drive off the aeration created by the baking soda and baking powder, leading to flat and rubbery flapjacks. Mix the batter only enough to wet the flour and break up any clumps—but no more!
(serves two parents and two hungry children)
2 c flour
2 Tbs sugar
2 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp baking soda
½ tsp baking powder
¾ c milk
1 c buttermilk (see tip below)
2 eggs
4 Tbs unsalted butter
1. Preheat a griddle until hot. (Drops of water should sizzle and evaporate instantly.)
2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, salt, baking soda, and baking powder.
3. In another bowl, combine the milk and buttermilk and microwave briefly until lukewarm. Beat the eggs lightly with a fork and add them to the buttermilk mixture. Melt the butter and add it to the buttermilk mixture. (If you add melted butter to cold milk or buttermilk, it will congeal.)
4. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients, mixing gently with a spatula or wooden spoon to combine. Make sure that all of the flour is wetted and break up any large pockets but leave the batter thick and a little lumpy.
5. Spoon the batter onto the griddle. Cook the pancakes until bubbles begin to appear, about 2 minutes. Flip and cook until done.
TIPS
• I you don't have buttermilk, use plain yogurt. Substitute one cup of yogurt and an additional half-cup of milk for the cup of buttermilk. (The additional milk compensates for the thickness of the yogurt.)
• Many factors, including the type of flour you use and the humidity in your kitchen, will affect the consistency of the batter you produce, even if you measure carefully. As you make this recipe again and again, however, you’ll become familiar with a consistency that works for you. Keep in mind that too thin a batter will yield crepes, while too thick a batter will make it difficult to cook the inside of the pancakes before the outside turns black. To judge whether the consistency of my batter is right, I scoop up some batter in the cupped silicon spatula that I use to mix the batter and transfer it to the griddle. If the batter drools quickly off the spatula, it’s too thin (and I add a little flour). If the batter holds in a clump on the spatula, it’s too thick (and I add a little milk). Just right is a gravity-induced plop-plop-plop back into the bowl.
(serves two parents and two hungry children)
2 c flour
2 Tbs sugar
2 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp baking soda
½ tsp baking powder
¾ c milk
1 c buttermilk (see tip below)
2 eggs
4 Tbs unsalted butter
1. Preheat a griddle until hot. (Drops of water should sizzle and evaporate instantly.)
2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, salt, baking soda, and baking powder.
3. In another bowl, combine the milk and buttermilk and microwave briefly until lukewarm. Beat the eggs lightly with a fork and add them to the buttermilk mixture. Melt the butter and add it to the buttermilk mixture. (If you add melted butter to cold milk or buttermilk, it will congeal.)
4. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients, mixing gently with a spatula or wooden spoon to combine. Make sure that all of the flour is wetted and break up any large pockets but leave the batter thick and a little lumpy.
5. Spoon the batter onto the griddle. Cook the pancakes until bubbles begin to appear, about 2 minutes. Flip and cook until done.
TIPS
• I you don't have buttermilk, use plain yogurt. Substitute one cup of yogurt and an additional half-cup of milk for the cup of buttermilk. (The additional milk compensates for the thickness of the yogurt.)
• Many factors, including the type of flour you use and the humidity in your kitchen, will affect the consistency of the batter you produce, even if you measure carefully. As you make this recipe again and again, however, you’ll become familiar with a consistency that works for you. Keep in mind that too thin a batter will yield crepes, while too thick a batter will make it difficult to cook the inside of the pancakes before the outside turns black. To judge whether the consistency of my batter is right, I scoop up some batter in the cupped silicon spatula that I use to mix the batter and transfer it to the griddle. If the batter drools quickly off the spatula, it’s too thin (and I add a little flour). If the batter holds in a clump on the spatula, it’s too thick (and I add a little milk). Just right is a gravity-induced plop-plop-plop back into the bowl.
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Butternut Squash Soup
This soup is nearly rich enough to serve as a dessert, but I use it as the basis for an easy midwinter meal. I make the soup ahead of time, say on a Sunday, and then serve it midweek with a hearty salad (perhaps including pear or some roasted beets), an oven-toasted baguette, and a nice cheese.
(serves two adults and two children)
1 medium butternut squash
1 medium onion
1 sprig fresh rosemary
2 Tbs unsalted butter
4 c chicken stock
ground nutmeg
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
heavy cream (optional)
1. Trim and peel the squash (see tip below). Halve it lengthwise and scrape out the seeds. Cut into one-inch dice. Coarsely chop the onion. Strip and coarsely chop the rosemary.
2. In a large stockpot, melt the butter and sauté the onion over medium-low heat until translucent, about 8 minutes. Add the squash, chicken stock, and rosemary. Raise the heat to high and bring the soup to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the squash becomes tender, about 25 minutes.
3. Using a slotted spoon or wire skimmer, remove the squash to the bowl of a food processor and puree. Return the squash puree to the stockpot and stir to combine. Season to taste with the nutmeg, salt, and pepper. When serving, consider drizzling a little heavy cream into each portion.
TIPS
• For some reason, peeling butternut squash leaves an unpleasant residue on the hands that can badly dry out the skin. I avoid this by wearing disposable latex gloves (found at any drug store).
• This soup has a lot of body. If you prefer your soup thinner, add more chicken stock at any time.
• If you own an immersion blender and haven’t figured out when to use it, this is your chance. Forget the food processor. Just lower your immersion blender into the stockpot and press PLAY.
(serves two adults and two children)
1 medium butternut squash
1 medium onion
1 sprig fresh rosemary
2 Tbs unsalted butter
4 c chicken stock
ground nutmeg
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
heavy cream (optional)
1. Trim and peel the squash (see tip below). Halve it lengthwise and scrape out the seeds. Cut into one-inch dice. Coarsely chop the onion. Strip and coarsely chop the rosemary.
2. In a large stockpot, melt the butter and sauté the onion over medium-low heat until translucent, about 8 minutes. Add the squash, chicken stock, and rosemary. Raise the heat to high and bring the soup to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the squash becomes tender, about 25 minutes.
3. Using a slotted spoon or wire skimmer, remove the squash to the bowl of a food processor and puree. Return the squash puree to the stockpot and stir to combine. Season to taste with the nutmeg, salt, and pepper. When serving, consider drizzling a little heavy cream into each portion.
TIPS
• For some reason, peeling butternut squash leaves an unpleasant residue on the hands that can badly dry out the skin. I avoid this by wearing disposable latex gloves (found at any drug store).
• This soup has a lot of body. If you prefer your soup thinner, add more chicken stock at any time.
• If you own an immersion blender and haven’t figured out when to use it, this is your chance. Forget the food processor. Just lower your immersion blender into the stockpot and press PLAY.
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